Farewell Camogli – hello Rome

After 6 days of doing nothing much it was time to leave Camogli and head back to Rome. We loved our time in Camogli and it’s mix of village living and hotel luxury. Despite plans to get out and see more of the Ligurian Coast, we pretty much just spent time exploring the village, and lounging by the pool or beach.

Our return trip to Rome consisted of the drive to Firenze and then a high speed train to Rome. The latter leg of the journey was thrown into some doubt as a national rail worker strike had been called for September 8 – the day we were travelling.

To make matters worse there was no definitive answer as to whether our service was running so our backup plan was to extend the rental car for a few hours and drive to Rome. Not ideal, but it would get us there – to our final stay of the trip at the lovely Hotel Barocco.

Eventually we found a list of trains that ‘should’ run during festivals and strikes (an interesting mix of events) but even then this is Italy, so who knows if this list is still current. Eventually we decided to time our run so we could check that our train service (which originated in Milan) actually left before we returned the rental car.

Sitting outside the rental car office in Firenze, illegally parked, we were able to confirm that, yes, the train had departed and we were good to go. The train station was chaos with thousands of people just milling around but luckily we could retreat to the Frecciarossa lounge and relax before boarding the train south.

A view of Camogli

Today is Monday and we are at the beach for the day. We have a view of the village and the coast beyond and, judging by the umbrellas and loungers we can see, we aren’t the only ones having a lazy Monday.

Fish and Chips Ligurian Style

After many restaurant meals it was time for some comfort food. Camogli has a fish and chip shop and a couple of days ago we lined up and placed an order. As with all good fish and chip shops it took 5 mins to cook before we were able to see what we actually had ordered and whether it was worth the 37 Euro we paid.

We ordered salted cod in batter, stuffed anchovies, focaccette with cheese and chips – or 4, 5, 7 and 10 as it said on the menu. When it was ready we sat outside the shop and ate them – washed down with a beer and a glass of wine we had bought with us.

It tasted great, so great that 2 nights later we were back for more.

Come in Camogli

After leaving Tuscany we drove north to Firenze, looped around the city to the west and headed towards Pisa then turning north towards the Ligurian Coast and Camogli. Three hours, one lunch stop and one toll stop later we arrived at Cenobio di Dogi – our home until September 8.

This is the largest hotel we will stay in – many rooms, three restaurants plus bars, a salt water pool and a private beach. Even given its size it feels relaxed and friendly and nothing is too much trouble.

So far we’ve spent a day on the beach and a day by the pool, we’ve relaxed on the terrace with many drinks and experienced the organised chaos that is breakfast, twice.

Our first night we ate out at La Camogliese just a few metres down the road.

we’ve eaten there before and the seafood has been superb. As a surprise I booked a table there months ago and didn’t tell Jean. It gets incredibly busy and we’ve actually been turned away in the past so I thought booking was a great idea. Making the booking was a challenge from 18,800 kms away but we got there in the end.

The surprise didn’t quite go to plan however.

“Darling, seeing it’s our first night, we should go out” I said. “Maybe try that place we like – what was it called? La Camogliese?”

“Really do we have too go out? I’m tired. Maybe we just grab some takeaways and eat them in our room. I can’t be bothered getting dressed up and putting on makeup” Jean said.

“Come on, you don’t have to get dressed up, let’s just go as we are.”

“I really don’t want to …”

Things were going pear-shaped fast.

“Darling, you remember I said that I had a couple of surprises I’d arranged? This is one of them – I’ve booked us dinner tonight at 9pm”

An extended silence ensued. “How lovely. Let’s get ready…” she said.