The end of the holiday

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After four weeks away we arrived home and have spent the last couple of weeks settling back into life at Kainui Road.

We have had a great time away and been spoilt along the way. People we met wanted to know about us and where we’re from. They marvel at how far we had to travel from New Zealand and want to know our story.

Italy is a generous country and we have experienced many acts of kindness along the way. Hotels we know have upgraded our rooms and restaurants and bars have given us extra treats along the way. Even on our last night we sat at an outside bar in Piazza Barberini drinking local chardonnay and Peroni beer. When it came time to order another chardonnay they had run out and were so embarrassed that a plate of pizza appeared on our table to say sorry. It was the best pizza we have eaten on this trip – but completely unnecessary.

Catching up with our friends is such a treat and it’s always hard to leave. We miss them terribly. Great meals and great times we will always remember. We returned home with bottles of wine, something liqueur and olive oil, all gifts from friends.

The girls were at the Dog Bach Kennels while we were away and apart from a couple of trips to the vet for upset tummies, have been in good health. The team there are excellent and we can’t recommend them highly enough.

The Dog Bach posts photos of their charges regularly and I’ve included a few with this post. Being able to see them while we’re away means so much. When we picked them up they largely ignored us (as they do) but when they got home they were excited to rediscover the house and garden – lots of zooming and a little bit of peeing.

Although it is the end of holiday Jean reminds me often that these days my life is just one big holiday anyway.

Last day in Rome
One bag of the four bags we checked through in Rome
Ellie makes friends
Bella makes friends
Bella on a rainy day
After a walk
Walking, walking, walking
Posing for a photo but easily distracted

Farewell Camogli – hello Rome

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After 6 days of doing nothing much it was time to leave Camogli and head back to Rome. We loved our time in Camogli and it’s mix of village living and hotel luxury. Despite plans to get out and see more of the Ligurian Coast, we pretty much just spent time exploring the village, and lounging by the pool or beach.

Our return trip to Rome consisted of the drive to Firenze and then a high speed train to Rome. The latter leg of the journey was thrown into some doubt as a national rail worker strike had been called for September 8 – the day we were travelling.

To make matters worse there was no definitive answer as to whether our service was running so our backup plan was to extend the rental car for a few hours and drive to Rome. Not ideal, but it would get us there – to our final stay of the trip at the lovely Hotel Barocco.

Eventually we found a list of trains that ‘should’ run during festivals and strikes (an interesting mix of events) but even then this is Italy, so who knows if this list is still current. Eventually we decided to time our run so we could check that our train service (which originated in Milan) actually left before we returned the rental car.

Sitting outside the rental car office in Firenze, illegally parked, we were able to confirm that, yes, the train had departed and we were good to go. The train station was chaos with thousands of people just milling around but luckily we could retreat to the Frecciarossa lounge and relax before boarding the train south.

Relaxing by the pool
Screenshot
Relaxing on a train

A view of Camogli

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Today is Monday and we are at the beach for the day. We have a view of the village and the coast beyond and, judging by the umbrellas and loungers we can see, we aren’t the only ones having a lazy Monday.

Fish and Chips Ligurian Style

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After many restaurant meals it was time for some comfort food. Camogli has a fish and chip shop and a couple of days ago we lined up and placed an order. As with all good fish and chip shops it took 5 mins to cook before we were able to see what we actually had ordered and whether it was worth the 37 Euro we paid.

We ordered salted cod in batter, stuffed anchovies, focaccette with cheese and chips – or 4, 5, 7 and 10 as it said on the menu. When it was ready we sat outside the shop and ate them – washed down with a beer and a glass of wine we had bought with us.

It tasted great, so great that 2 nights later we were back for more.

Come in Camogli

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After leaving Tuscany we drove north to Firenze, looped around the city to the west and headed towards Pisa then turning north towards the Ligurian Coast and Camogli. Three hours, one lunch stop and one toll stop later we arrived at Cenobio di Dogi – our home until September 8.

This is the largest hotel we will stay in – many rooms, three restaurants plus bars, a salt water pool and a private beach. Even given its size it feels relaxed and friendly and nothing is too much trouble.

So far we’ve spent a day on the beach and a day by the pool, we’ve relaxed on the terrace with many drinks and experienced the organised chaos that is breakfast, twice.

Our first night we ate out at La Camogliese just a few metres down the road.

we’ve eaten there before and the seafood has been superb. As a surprise I booked a table there months ago and didn’t tell Jean. It gets incredibly busy and we’ve actually been turned away in the past so I thought booking was a great idea. Making the booking was a challenge from 18,800 kms away but we got there in the end.

The surprise didn’t quite go to plan however.

“Darling, seeing it’s our first night, we should go out” I said. “Maybe try that place we like – what was it called? La Camogliese?”

“Really do we have too go out? I’m tired. Maybe we just grab some takeaways and eat them in our room. I can’t be bothered getting dressed up and putting on makeup” Jean said.

“Come on, you don’t have to get dressed up, let’s just go as we are.”

“I really don’t want to …”

Things were going pear-shaped fast.

“Darling, you remember I said that I had a couple of surprises I’d arranged? This is one of them – I’ve booked us dinner tonight at 9pm”

An extended silence ensued. “How lovely. Let’s get ready…” she said.

Anchovies three ways
Fish Ligurian style

Catching up with friends

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Coming to Tuscany is about catching up with friends. Dani and Olga are our longest standing, dear friends in Tuscany – and despite not seeing them for 2 years we pick up just where we left off. Dani’s wicked sense of humour is a delight and Olga’s ability to always look out for us is special.

Tina our friend from Auckland is visiting Tuscany. We only seem to catch up with her when we’re half a world away from home but we’ve sworn to make sure we catch up closer to home in future.

Matteo and Francesca who produce the best olive oil in Tuscany are also special friends who we met through Olga. They are the proud owners of Pornanino Olive Oil which we believe produces some of the best olive oil we have tasted.

When we all get together it is a wonderful mix of stories and laughter in Italian and English (and occasionally gibberish), always over a meal (or three) and a glass or two of wine.

Dinner at our hotel – first day in Tuscany
Dinner at our hotel – first day in Tuscany
The Relais Vignale pool – hotel in the background
BBQ at Dani and Olga’s place
The two of us
Lovely table setting
Dani in his workshop – our gift of koru sculptures in front
BBQ team – Tina, Dani, Olga and your’s truly
Tina, Francesca, Matteo and Dani

Siena waits for you

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Siena used to be our local town when were in Italy in 2011. Our cottage was an easy 10 mins drive from the town and we visited often.

We love Siena. It is unique with its Campo, Duomo and multiple contrada who compete in the Palio horse race each year. Historically it may have come second to Florence but in our minds it’s number one.

Our friend Tina has rented an apartment near by and so we set off from Radda to visit her and spend a day walking the narrow streets, shopping, of course, and sitting in the Campo watching the world go by.

Despite there being a break in the hot, hot weather in Tuscany, it was still warm so the walk into the town was spent moving from shaded street to shaded street and resting when possible. The ideal place for that being Al Mangia bar in the Campo. I set up camp there while the girls spent time shopping and looking, and shopping. For lunch we moved to the shaded side of the Campo – along with many others.

It has been a few years since we last visited and it was great to experience the sights and sounds of the Siena again.

Moving on – Positano to Tuscany

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Saturday was a travel day starting at 9am in Positano and ending at Relais Vignale in Radda in Chianti at 5:30pm. The bulk of the travel was by train from Napoli to Firenze followed by driving through the Tuscan countryside in our zippy Ford Puma rental.

Jean enjoying the train trip to Firenze

Dinner at Adamo e Eva

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One of the highlights of our holiday is to eat at Adamo e Eva, the restaurant at Eden Roc Hotel. This year we were lucky enough to be seated on the panorama terrace – with the best view of Positano providing a backdrop for dinner.

The food was superb and the service impeccable. We even got a complimentary glass of prosecco to start and some chef’s treats along the way. We worked our way through the meal starting with avocado and tomato tartare, with black Venere rice, salmon, and basil cream, and crispy cannelloni stuffed with lime-scented raw tuna, ground pistachio and mango.

The main courses were sauteed sea bass with lemon-scented potatoes puree and herb-scented bread which we both had. We finished with a shared pistachio mousse in a fondant crust, stuffed with Dubai chocolate.

Many thanks to Carlo and the team, it was an unforgettable night.

Avocado and tomato tartare
Crispy cannelloni
Sauteed sea bass
Pistachio mousse

Da Adolfo day out

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We were so impressed with the beachside restaurant Da Adolfo when we visited it with Jake and Lauren that we went back a couple of days later. The mix of dining and swimming seemed a perfect match for us, as one of us – Jean – loves eating, drinking and swimming in the ocean and the other – me – loves eating and drinking.

As always, the hardest part of the day was capturing Jean on camera.

Positano from the Da Adolfo boat
Arriving at Da Adolfo

Starwatch – we did see someone famous at Da Adolfo – not sure of his name – an English actor chap – any suggestions?

Li Galli Bar and Bistro

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Li Galli is situated about half way between the village centre and Casetta Arienzo. It has both an inside and outside area which are split by the main road through Positano so serving has the added excitement of dodging traffic. The outside bar and dining is spread along the footpath and has the most spectacular views of Positano and the bay. Stopping for a drink is a must do.

It is also the perfect place to take a break on our walk home and on a hot day, it’s a life saver. Ice cold beer and Gin Tonica are the best way to beat the heat.

We have grown to know the team over many years – Gio, Ciro and Giuseppe – and as we stagger up the hill, hot and sweaty we are spotted and a table is ready so we can collapse into a seat. Orders are known and drinks arrive as if by magic.

We’ve also had dinner there a few times over the years. This time it was special. Great food and wine and that beautiful view of the village at night. I would challenge anyone to find a better bistro meal in Positano.

The starter was salmon on bread cake (the description doesn’t do justice to the dish and, of course we ate it before we photographed it) followed by a main course – mixed seafood grill – which showcased the best of the coast, everything from langoustine through to sea bass with squid and baby octopus thrown in for good measure. Molto buono.

Jean was also tempted away from her usual Chardonnay with a local white that embodied all the best of the coast, ideal drinking for a warm summer night and a seafood meal. It was so good I even deserted beer for the evening.

One thing that makes our trips special for us are the connections we have made. And I think we can call the team at Galli our friends. In fact the lovely Gio and his partner have a standing invitation to stay with us if he ventures as far as New Zealand – plus a choice of Porshce to drive. It would be lovely to see them at our place.

Gio kindly gave us a gift when we left – an excellent bottle of red wine – which we will now take home. One evening over summer we will open it and enjoy it on our front verandah looking out across Wellington harbour – reminding ourselves of our trip and our friends on the other side of the world.

To us that is the essence of travel, and why we return.

One of the challenges at Galli Bar – working across the main road
Mixed Fish Grill – delicious
Dinner at Galli
Throwback to 2011 – the view from Li Galli

The best way home

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The last few days have been hot. Very hot and very humid. So getting around has been a challenge but returning home from the hotel a few days ago things changed. We were offered a ride in the hotel Tuktuk.

Visitors to the coast

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Over the last few days we’ve been joined in Positano by Jake and Lauren, our lovely niece and nephew from Texas. They arrived last Friday and left Tuesday, heading north to a wedding in Tuscany and then on to the Dolomites.

They are keen walkers and, for those of you who know Positano, that’s good because the village is all walking – up, down and sideways.

It was lovely to be able to provide some tips for them – places to go and things to see – although they had a pretty full itinerary worked out before they arrived.

They visited Pompei, did the walk of the gods and spent a day on a boat cruising along the coast to Amalfi and back. We organised a dinner at Il Ritrovo in Montepertuso, above Positano, and an afternoon at Da Adolfo, a beach club along the coast only accessible by boat. We also had dinner at the famous Chez Black on the waterfront.

We had a great time and it was lovely to spend time them both.

Outside Casa Bottega after lunch
Chez Black for dinner
After dinner at Chez Black
Jake and Lauren on the terrace at Eden Roc Hotel
Showing off Da Adolfo merch
The boys at Da Adolfo
Blacken fish – -Da Adolfo
Having a snooze after lunch

Pool lunches

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Our days spent by the hotel pool are broken by lunch at the Eden Sky Bar. The food is always great but we have very different orders. One is healthy and delicious, the other is fish and chips. Guess who has what.

Super Yacht Watch

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It’s been a busy week on the water at Positano. Following Ferragosto last week a few boats have stayed moored offshore. This is the view from the hotel pool looking south towards Praiano.