Farewell Camogli – hello Rome

After 6 days of doing nothing much it was time to leave Camogli and head back to Rome. We loved our time in Camogli and it’s mix of village living and hotel luxury. Despite plans to get out and see more of the Ligurian Coast, we pretty much just spent time exploring the village, and lounging by the pool or beach.

Our return trip to Rome consisted of the drive to Firenze and then a high speed train to Rome. The latter leg of the journey was thrown into some doubt as a national rail worker strike had been called for September 8 – the day we were travelling.

To make matters worse there was no definitive answer as to whether our service was running so our backup plan was to extend the rental car for a few hours and drive to Rome. Not ideal, but it would get us there – to our final stay of the trip at the lovely Hotel Barocco.

Eventually we found a list of trains that ‘should’ run during festivals and strikes (an interesting mix of events) but even then this is Italy, so who knows if this list is still current. Eventually we decided to time our run so we could check that our train service (which originated in Milan) actually left before we returned the rental car.

Sitting outside the rental car office in Firenze, illegally parked, we were able to confirm that, yes, the train had departed and we were good to go. The train station was chaos with thousands of people just milling around but luckily we could retreat to the Frecciarossa lounge and relax before boarding the train south.

Last day in Camogli

Today we leave Camogli and head south to Positano. We have thoroughly enjoyed both our time here at Cenobio Dei Dogi and our time exploring the village.

Would we come back – like a shot.

As always it’s about the place but also the people you meet. After 6 days of turning up at the same places for meals and drinks, exploring the village on foot (it’s not a big village so there’s not much walking involved) and generally settling in we are starting to be recognised. The fact that we are from New Zealand is a surprise and the start of a conversation. And that’s what it’s all about.

How can things not go well …

… when this is your first cappuccino of the day.

A new and exciting place to visit.

On our trip south we needed a place to stay for a night between Villefranche-Sur-Mer and our cottage.  We wanted to avoid the big cities like Torino and Milano and so, once again, Trip Advisor was tasked with finding a place.  More accurately Jean using Trip Advisor was tasked with finding a place.

On the Portofino coast a hotel called Cenobio Dei Dogi caught Jean’s attention and met our standard requirements of parking and dogs welcomed.

It was quite expensive – even with a discounted rate – but this was offset by free parking (it can be as much as €25 a night at some places) and no charge for the girls (which can also be as much as €15 a night each).

Finding the hotel which is situated right on the waters edge was a challenge as leaving the highway, which is high above the water, meant winding down the hill using the usual maze of one way streets and switchback roads that is typical of driving along the Italian Coast.  Some of the roads are so close together and the switchbacks so tight that our Tom Tom GPS navigation system couldn’t tell which of two roads we were on.  This is a recipe for wrong turns and the occasional wrong way up a one way street.  Being Italy this type of thing warrants a blast on the horn from fellow motorists followed by a wave of the hand once you extricate the car and get back on track.  You get the feeling even the locals have trouble on occasions.

Jean’s visit to Trip Advisor had given us an idea of what to expect but the reality far exceeded our expectations.  The hotel was built in the late 50s or early 60s and that classic character has been retained.  You are half expecting movie stars like Cary Grant or Sophia Loren to sweep into the bar or out on to the terrace for a pre-dinner aperitif.

We wiled away the afternoon on the Terrace, overlooking the Ligurian Sea enjoying a drink or two.  The service was immaculate and friendly.  When our waiter found out one of our dogs was called Poppie there was much amusement.  He explained that Poppi was the name of his fellow waiter and this became an ongoing joke for the rest of the afternoon.

Hotel Cenobio Dei Dogi will be our last taste of hotel luxury for a while as our next stop is Tuscany and our new home.

View looking north from the terrace with morning coffee in progress.