Tag Archives: Rome

The mystery machine

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Next to our hotel in Rome there is a vending machine. It is covered in buttons, has slots for money and for cards, is covered in pictures and Italian writing, and it changes colour every few seconds. It looks a bit like a Las Vegas slot machine, and like one of those has caused both delight and tears.

We have sat at the bar which is next to it and observed many people using, or trying to use it. Last night there was an American girl trying to use it, the interaction ended in tears.

So what is this mystery machine and why does it affect people the way it does. Jean went to investigate.

it is a cigarette vending machine which has instructions only in Italian and a process for purchase that is convoluted and complicated. Clearly the locals understand it, but any visitor is baffled. Often they put their money into the machine only to fail the process to purchase and then walk away empty handed and without their cash.

Upon investigation, Jean’s concluded that ID is required as part of the purchase process. All Italians have this via a national ID card. Things like passports and drivers licences or foreign ID cards are useless – but there is no indication of that on the machine. So having watched people struggle with it and fail, I’m pretty sure that this machine is the most profitable vending machine in Italy.

Views of Rome you don’t usually see

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In a world of Instagram perfection I thought it was time to show some views of Rome that wouldn’t normally make the cut. Alternate captions welcomed.

Tour guide showing group a well known local umbrella
No coffee until the end of August – when all the tourists have gone home
Hop on, hop off salesman on a quiet day
An interesting art installation
Security lapse at Van Cleef
When you just miss the shot of a stylish lady walking her dogs
Hotel staff walking customers bag – a new trend among the ultra wealthy.
Crocs sighted in Rome. Must be time to leave.

The sign that led to the search for via Frattina 136

The Monster House

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About 30 metres from the top of the Spanish Steps is this unique house. It is Palazzo Zuccari, also known as the House of Monsters of Rome, which now houses the Bibliotheca Hertziana.

The Bibliotheca Hertziana is a highly specialised library which can only be accessed after completing a doctorate in History of Arts or Humanities – although there are now daily tours available.

This facia was originally the back of a house built in the 1500s (before the Spanish Steps were built) which was the entrance to a garden. The owner, an artist, wanted a striking entrance that contrasted with the beauty of the garden beyond. Hence the monsters sculpted around the doors and windows.

Also, please note Jean doing her best Insta pose.

First Cappuccino

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Even as a non-coffee drinker, this was a great start to our first day in Rome.

Back to Italy

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Florence from Piazza Michaelangelo

We weren’t planning to visit Italy this year. Last year’s trip was on such a scale and the credit card bills were so large that we were genuinely planning a “stay at home” year.

But last year, on a whim, we had pencil booked a two week stay at Casetta Arienzo in Positano for August this year.

We ignored the time late last year when we usually book the early bird flights to Europe. We were mentally not going, we had checked out, so to speak.

Until an email arrived in May from the lovely people at Eden Roc Hotel asking us to confirm or cancel the booking for Casetta Arienzo. That changed things.

Or more accurately, we came to our senses.

Within a fortnight in May we arranged everything – flights (thank you Petra our lovely travel agent of 25 years), hotels (some old favourites and some new experiences), train trips, rental cars in Italy and all that goes along with a holiday.

We are going for a month, staying in Positano for two weeks, spending a week or so catching up with friends in Tuscany and making up the remaining time in Rome.

Time has flown and it’s now mid August and we’re flying out in a couple of days. We can’t wait.

Photos and more photos

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We’ve been home from Italy for just over a month. Time for us to settle back into home life, sort through all the photographs we’ve taken, and load a selection into a holiday gallery on SmugMug.

If you’d like to see some shots from the blog and some new ones you won’t have seen, click here.

All the photos were taken using iPhones – as opposed to the usual Nikon camera back and lenses I have lugged to Europe in the past. All in all, apart from not having any real control over the depth of field, they look pretty good.

Food glorious food

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We left Rome on a high note – from a culinary viewpoint. Our two last nights were dining out – at Aroma next to the colosseum and then at La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri.

Aroma has one Michelin star and La Pergola has three – so we were expecting fireworks. And we got them.

Aroma offers a range of degustation menus to choose from, excellent service and a view from your table that is quite spectacular. La Pergola offers both degustation and al la carte menus, immaculate service and views across Rome.

The staff at Hotel Barocco were interested in our comparison between the two as one of the front desk staff is the cousin of the chef at Aroma.

it’s fair to say that both provide exquisite food and a fine wine list. And both delight with small surprises as the meal progresses.

There is a formality at La Pergola which comes with three Michelin stars – there’s someone to escort you to the toilets, just to make sure you don’t get lost and while you’re gone a fresh napkin is provided at the table for no reason other than your old one was wrinkled. Their mineral water list is longer than almost any other restaurant’s wine list and your meal is timed to perfection – they know how long to leave between courses – so all you need to do is concentrate on the food.

Aroma feels younger and slightly edgier. There is a fraction less precision but that comes across as less formality. Given their menu approach, food and wines are matched which is a real treat and we lingered longer there to chat with the staff.

Which one is better – we couldn’t call it. So the question we posed ourselves was – if we were taking someone out to dinner in Rome and wanted to surprise and delight them which would we choose?

It would be Aroma, but only by a wafer thin margin.

The view from Aroma
Chef’s start at Aroma
Watermelon, oyster and sea lettuce
Raw red prawn veils, warm Provolone del Monaco cheese and truffle
Mezzi naccheri pasta, marinated scorpion fish, lemon gel and black garlic
Sweet surprises
Apricot, caramel and elderberry
Cheers Aroma
The terrace at La Pergola
Turbot, marinated sweet pepper and Mediterranean flavours
Fillet of veal on tomato and basil textures
A filing cabinet of sweet treats
The terrace at La Pergola in Rome
The view across Rome from La Pergola
Drawers of sweet treats at La Pergola

Hard Rock – there’s nothing better

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It was our first night in Rome. Big decision – where to eat dinner? We sat at the bar outside the hotel and were discussing this weighty problem when we saw someone walking past carrying a doggie bag from the Hard Rock Cafe. We had gone there in 1999 when we were in Rome – not sure why – and we still have the branded glasses and t shirt in the attic at home.

A few minutes later we saw another bag go by. This got us to thinking.

To be honest I thought Hard Rock place didn’t exist any more. In my mind it was an icon of the 90s which went broke along with Planet Hollywood and other themed restaurants of the era.

A quick google proved me wrong – it was alive and well and about 200 metres up the road on Via Veneto. At that point the Prosecco and Aperol Spritz kicked in and we found ourselves heading there for dinner – a blast from the past.

I was amazed, the place was thumping. And after a diet of fine Italian food we were looking forward to burgers and fries. And yes Josh, buffalo wings so hot they meant I couldn’t taste anything much after the starter.

We had a blast and ended up in the souvenir shop – and have another Hard Rock t-shirt.

Rock on.

Back to Rome for a few days

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On Saturday we moved from the Amalfi Coast to Rome. An hour and a half from Positano to Naples by car and 60 mins from there by high speed train to Rome.

Rome is still busy but the temperature has dropped from seven weeks ago from mid/late 30s to around 30 so life is much easier. Everyone seems more relaxed but the place is still packed with tourists.

It was great to get back to Hotel Barocco and to catch up with Fabio who runs reception with style and efficiency. This is a boutique hotel but the quality and friendliness of staff makes it stand out. If you are visiting Rome, please try it.

Our room also makes things special as we booked one of their junior suites with a view across Piazza Barberini. It’s decorated in shades of white and cream so Jean was delighted. it was her kind of room – hence both the photos and the movie.

We now have 3 days before our flight home which will be spent exploring the city, catching up on those last minute presents, as well as eating out. We have booked two restaurants for dinner – Aroma next to the colosseum and La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri which is, I believe, the only 3 star Michelin restaurant in the city.

Updates to follow.

Jean in her private carriage
Our cream room at Barocco
More cream room
My view of Jean when she’s shopping
Via Tritone full of people
The movie of the room

Out and about in Rome

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We spent a day wandering around Rome – visiting some places we’ve seen before and adding a few new ones to the list.

We also took our first selfie – not sure why.

The Trevi Fountain
Crowds at the Trevi Fountain
First selfie – hmmm
Second selfie – better
The back streets of Rome
The Pantheon – recently a charge was introduced to manage the number of visitors
Fontana delle Pantheon
The missus, a picture of elegance in a sea of worn sneakers and ill fitting t-shirts
Piazza Navona
Bernini fountain in Piazza Navona
Third selfie – winner
The queue to enter the Pantheon – not sure if the new charge has worked.

The train to Venezia

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We are travelling. We are on our way to Venice by high speed train, a trip of around 4 hours. I received the email below just after leaving Rome.

Clearly timekeeping matters.

Our room in Rome

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Hotel rooms in Rome are often slightly weird. Because they have to work with the existing building layout there can be some unusual layouts. Ours is long and winding, but the plus is the outside terrace and what comes with it.

Given the 30 degree heat, the sauna didn’t offer a lot of value, but the rest of the terrace was priceless.

Room 43 Hotel Barocco Rome – trashed but ours.

Trains, planes and automobiles to Rome

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After many hours travel we arrived in Rome yesterday. Everything went as it should – we made our connections, our bags arrived and all our transfers when smoothly although the final leg – a train from Milan to Rome and a taxi to the hotel was done with us largely asleep as the local time of 8pm meant our bodies had some catching up to do.

It was great to sleep in a real bed at Hotel Barocco – despite waking at about 6am with an overwhelming desire for dinner.

So soon after, we sat down to a three course dinner masquerading as the Barocco breakfast – pastries, cheeses and cold meats, fresh fruit, eggs, rolls and the inevitable cups of cappuccino.

The perfect way to start a day in Rome.

The view from our terrace – early morning in Rome.
Hotel Bernini Bristol made famous in the book The Da Vinci Code
Our first breakfast in Rome
More breakfast in Rome
A great way to start the day

On the train from Milan to Rome – bored and tired at 157 km/h

Our itinerary

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I’ve had a few requests for the itinerary for our Italian odyssey. So here goes:

  • 24 July – Depart Wellington
  • 25 July – Arrive in Rome, stay 3 nights
  • 28 July – Train to Venice, stay 4 nights
  • 1 August – Train to Florence, collect rental car, drive to Camogli, stay 7 nights
  • 7 August – Drive to Radda in Chianti, Tuscany, stay 5 nights
  • 12 August – Train to Naples and then driver to Positano, stay 3 weeks
  • 2 September – Train to Rome stay 4 nights
  • 6 September – Depart Rome for home
  • 8 September – Arrive in Wellington – recover from jetlag

So there you have it – 7 weeks in 9 lines. Simple.

The train to Florence

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Getting around Italy by high speed train is easy and relaxing. We have regularly used it between Rome, Florence and Naples in the past and this trip is no exception.

The one thing we haven’t done before is try out Trenitalia’s premium class. This is half a carriage of luxury seating – 8 seats in all – right at the front of the train. It costs a bit more but comes with a meal service, a cabin crew member to look after you and your luggage and more legroom than you could want. There is even a conference room in the carriage if a quick meeting is needed en route.

On this leg of our journey from Rome to Florence we treated ourselves and booked seats 2A and 2B.