Category Archives: Rome

Spoilt rotten in Rome

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Gentle readers, as you may know we have a favourite place to stay in Rome. Hotel Barocco is a boutique hotel with 38 rooms located on Piazza Barberini at the bottom of the Via Veneto in the cities historical centre.

Our first stay was in 2011 when we lived in Italy for a year. We picked it from Booking.com’s list of hotels as it is dog friendly (so Daisy and Poppy the Bichon Frise could stay with us whenever we travelled from our rental in Tuscany to Rome) and because it looked ‘quite nice in the pictures’.

Since then it has become our place to stay in Rome. It has never disappointed and has always gone the extra mile for us – ensuring that we had a room with a terrace when the girls stayed in 2011 so no one had to go onto the street for comfort stops at 5am, or by making our delayed stay in 2019 (as the student riots forced an extended transit stay in Hong Kong) easy and worry free despite our booking being non-changable and non-refundable.

Jean and Poppie outside Hotel Barocco on a visit to Rome in 2011. Look closely and you’ll see the lead is a camera bag handle as we’d left the proper leads behind in Tuscany

This trip when we arrived at 9am tired and jet lagged our room was ready for us (which definitely is not the norm in hotels) and we had been upgraded to a room far superior to the one we booked. Thank you to all at Hotel Barocco, what a great start to our holiday.

One of Jeans famous ‘one take’ walk-through videos.

Let the fun begin

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It’s August and our Italian holiday has started. The lovely people at Cathay Pacific are transporting us from a cold and dark New Zealand to a warm inviting Italy. The flight was broken up by a 4 hour layover in Hong Kong which meant an 11 hour first leg skirting around Australia and then north over the Philipines and a 12 hour second leg across Asia and Europe.

There is no feeling quite like waking up to a sunrise over Kazakhstan as your plane zigzags between war zones.

This trip we flew Cathay Pacific. They are a great airline and their Premium Economy product is pretty good. For us the added legroom is the key attraction but priority boarding and an upgraded food offering is nothing to sneeze at.

But we still rate Emirates as having the best Premium Economy product in our experience. It just feels special and is more “business lite” rather than Cathay’s “economy plus”.

One more thing that Cathay does right is the electronic check in and automated baggage process at Auckland Airport. It is brilliant and removes all the queuing and angst of the traditional approach – plus they have enough helpers working the kiosks to make sure everyone who needs a bit of help gets it.

The mystery machine

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Next to our hotel in Rome there is a vending machine. It is covered in buttons, has slots for money and for cards, is covered in pictures and Italian writing, and it changes colour every few seconds. It looks a bit like a Las Vegas slot machine, and like one of those has caused both delight and tears.

We have sat at the bar which is next to it and observed many people using, or trying to use it. Last night there was an American girl trying to use it, the interaction ended in tears.

So what is this mystery machine and why does it affect people the way it does. Jean went to investigate.

it is a cigarette vending machine which has instructions only in Italian and a process for purchase that is convoluted and complicated. Clearly the locals understand it, but any visitor is baffled. Often they put their money into the machine only to fail the process to purchase and then walk away empty handed and without their cash.

Upon investigation, Jean’s concluded that ID is required as part of the purchase process. All Italians have this via a national ID card. Things like passports and drivers licences or foreign ID cards are useless – but there is no indication of that on the machine. So having watched people struggle with it and fail, I’m pretty sure that this machine is the most profitable vending machine in Italy.

Views of Rome you don’t usually see

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In a world of Instagram perfection I thought it was time to show some views of Rome that wouldn’t normally make the cut. Alternate captions welcomed.

Tour guide showing group a well known local umbrella
No coffee until the end of August – when all the tourists have gone home
Hop on, hop off salesman on a quiet day
An interesting art installation
Security lapse at Van Cleef
When you just miss the shot of a stylish lady walking her dogs
Hotel staff walking customers bag – a new trend among the ultra wealthy.
Crocs sighted in Rome. Must be time to leave.

The sign that led to the search for via Frattina 136

The Monster House

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About 30 metres from the top of the Spanish Steps is this unique house. It is Palazzo Zuccari, also known as the House of Monsters of Rome, which now houses the Bibliotheca Hertziana.

The Bibliotheca Hertziana is a highly specialised library which can only be accessed after completing a doctorate in History of Arts or Humanities – although there are now daily tours available.

This facia was originally the back of a house built in the 1500s (before the Spanish Steps were built) which was the entrance to a garden. The owner, an artist, wanted a striking entrance that contrasted with the beauty of the garden beyond. Hence the monsters sculpted around the doors and windows.

Also, please note Jean doing her best Insta pose.

Back to Italy

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Florence from Piazza Michaelangelo

We weren’t planning to visit Italy this year. Last year’s trip was on such a scale and the credit card bills were so large that we were genuinely planning a “stay at home” year.

But last year, on a whim, we had pencil booked a two week stay at Casetta Arienzo in Positano for August this year.

We ignored the time late last year when we usually book the early bird flights to Europe. We were mentally not going, we had checked out, so to speak.

Until an email arrived in May from the lovely people at Eden Roc Hotel asking us to confirm or cancel the booking for Casetta Arienzo. That changed things.

Or more accurately, we came to our senses.

Within a fortnight in May we arranged everything – flights (thank you Petra our lovely travel agent of 25 years), hotels (some old favourites and some new experiences), train trips, rental cars in Italy and all that goes along with a holiday.

We are going for a month, staying in Positano for two weeks, spending a week or so catching up with friends in Tuscany and making up the remaining time in Rome.

Time has flown and it’s now mid August and we’re flying out in a couple of days. We can’t wait.

Photos and more photos

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We’ve been home from Italy for just over a month. Time for us to settle back into home life, sort through all the photographs we’ve taken, and load a selection into a holiday gallery on SmugMug.

If you’d like to see some shots from the blog and some new ones you won’t have seen, click here.

All the photos were taken using iPhones – as opposed to the usual Nikon camera back and lenses I have lugged to Europe in the past. All in all, apart from not having any real control over the depth of field, they look pretty good.

Food glorious food

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We left Rome on a high note – from a culinary viewpoint. Our two last nights were dining out – at Aroma next to the colosseum and then at La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri.

Aroma has one Michelin star and La Pergola has three – so we were expecting fireworks. And we got them.

Aroma offers a range of degustation menus to choose from, excellent service and a view from your table that is quite spectacular. La Pergola offers both degustation and al la carte menus, immaculate service and views across Rome.

The staff at Hotel Barocco were interested in our comparison between the two as one of the front desk staff is the cousin of the chef at Aroma.

it’s fair to say that both provide exquisite food and a fine wine list. And both delight with small surprises as the meal progresses.

There is a formality at La Pergola which comes with three Michelin stars – there’s someone to escort you to the toilets, just to make sure you don’t get lost and while you’re gone a fresh napkin is provided at the table for no reason other than your old one was wrinkled. Their mineral water list is longer than almost any other restaurant’s wine list and your meal is timed to perfection – they know how long to leave between courses – so all you need to do is concentrate on the food.

Aroma feels younger and slightly edgier. There is a fraction less precision but that comes across as less formality. Given their menu approach, food and wines are matched which is a real treat and we lingered longer there to chat with the staff.

Which one is better – we couldn’t call it. So the question we posed ourselves was – if we were taking someone out to dinner in Rome and wanted to surprise and delight them which would we choose?

It would be Aroma, but only by a wafer thin margin.

The view from Aroma
Chef’s start at Aroma
Watermelon, oyster and sea lettuce
Raw red prawn veils, warm Provolone del Monaco cheese and truffle
Mezzi naccheri pasta, marinated scorpion fish, lemon gel and black garlic
Sweet surprises
Apricot, caramel and elderberry
Cheers Aroma
The terrace at La Pergola
Turbot, marinated sweet pepper and Mediterranean flavours
Fillet of veal on tomato and basil textures
A filing cabinet of sweet treats
The terrace at La Pergola in Rome
The view across Rome from La Pergola
Drawers of sweet treats at La Pergola

And the award for the best breakfast in Italy goes too …

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Over the last few weeks we have experienced a range of breakfasts from a range of hotels. Some have been buffet, some al la carte, but all have been excellent quality and vast in the range of items they include.

But now we need to get serious and pick the best. There can be only one winner.

After much deliberation the winning breakfast goes to Hotel Barocco and their fine al la carte effort. The coffee is superb, the welcome treats of fruit, cakes, cheese and meats are delightful and the eggs with whatever you wish to accompany them are delicious.

Only a whisker behind is the breakfast is Eden Roc Hotel where our friend Tony runs the show. Tony has looked after us so well – with special treats each morning and a Prosecco to start the day. He has also made sure we left every morning with a package of pastries “for later” at Casetta Arienzo.

Welcome treats from Barocco
The best cappuccino of the trip
Perfect poached eggs
Eden Roc breakfast – with a view

Hard Rock – there’s nothing better

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It was our first night in Rome. Big decision – where to eat dinner? We sat at the bar outside the hotel and were discussing this weighty problem when we saw someone walking past carrying a doggie bag from the Hard Rock Cafe. We had gone there in 1999 when we were in Rome – not sure why – and we still have the branded glasses and t shirt in the attic at home.

A few minutes later we saw another bag go by. This got us to thinking.

To be honest I thought Hard Rock place didn’t exist any more. In my mind it was an icon of the 90s which went broke along with Planet Hollywood and other themed restaurants of the era.

A quick google proved me wrong – it was alive and well and about 200 metres up the road on Via Veneto. At that point the Prosecco and Aperol Spritz kicked in and we found ourselves heading there for dinner – a blast from the past.

I was amazed, the place was thumping. And after a diet of fine Italian food we were looking forward to burgers and fries. And yes Josh, buffalo wings so hot they meant I couldn’t taste anything much after the starter.

We had a blast and ended up in the souvenir shop – and have another Hard Rock t-shirt.

Rock on.

Back to Rome for a few days

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On Saturday we moved from the Amalfi Coast to Rome. An hour and a half from Positano to Naples by car and 60 mins from there by high speed train to Rome.

Rome is still busy but the temperature has dropped from seven weeks ago from mid/late 30s to around 30 so life is much easier. Everyone seems more relaxed but the place is still packed with tourists.

It was great to get back to Hotel Barocco and to catch up with Fabio who runs reception with style and efficiency. This is a boutique hotel but the quality and friendliness of staff makes it stand out. If you are visiting Rome, please try it.

Our room also makes things special as we booked one of their junior suites with a view across Piazza Barberini. It’s decorated in shades of white and cream so Jean was delighted. it was her kind of room – hence both the photos and the movie.

We now have 3 days before our flight home which will be spent exploring the city, catching up on those last minute presents, as well as eating out. We have booked two restaurants for dinner – Aroma next to the colosseum and La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri which is, I believe, the only 3 star Michelin restaurant in the city.

Updates to follow.

Jean in her private carriage
Our cream room at Barocco
More cream room
My view of Jean when she’s shopping
Via Tritone full of people
The movie of the room

Out and about in Rome

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We spent a day wandering around Rome – visiting some places we’ve seen before and adding a few new ones to the list.

We also took our first selfie – not sure why.

The Trevi Fountain
Crowds at the Trevi Fountain
First selfie – hmmm
Second selfie – better
The back streets of Rome
The Pantheon – recently a charge was introduced to manage the number of visitors
Fontana delle Pantheon
The missus, a picture of elegance in a sea of worn sneakers and ill fitting t-shirts
Piazza Navona
Bernini fountain in Piazza Navona
Third selfie – winner
The queue to enter the Pantheon – not sure if the new charge has worked.

The train to Venezia

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We are travelling. We are on our way to Venice by high speed train, a trip of around 4 hours. I received the email below just after leaving Rome.

Clearly timekeeping matters.

Our room in Rome

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Hotel rooms in Rome are often slightly weird. Because they have to work with the existing building layout there can be some unusual layouts. Ours is long and winding, but the plus is the outside terrace and what comes with it.

Given the 30 degree heat, the sauna didn’t offer a lot of value, but the rest of the terrace was priceless.

Room 43 Hotel Barocco Rome – trashed but ours.