This post is a blatant attempt to justify sitting at the terrace bar at our hotel in Camogli for a couple of hours drinking and nibbling on bar snacks – by saying it was all an excuse to take this series of sunset pictures as the afternoon transformed into evening.
Yes, we have reached that point. There was no locked off tripod or set exposure – just me waving my phone above my head every so often and taking a picture. Half of the shots were out of focus the rest wobbled around to the point where Photoshop was the only way to vaguely line them up.
But we really need no excuse to sit there – we love the terrace bar, it’s excellent staff, perfect drinks, the tasty bar snacks that arrived unprompted, and it’s ever changing view.
We have been in Camogli for just under a week and life has settled into an easy routine. Time by the pool, time in the village and time doing bugger all else.
Camogli from our hotel windowFirst night dinner in our roomOther visitors to Camogli will know these steps – all 95 of themDining at Le Camogliese restaurantJeans sampling Liguria’s finestExasperation after repeating previous shot 4 timesJeans dinner cover upDressing to blend in – with the wallLocal fish caught that morningHearts on a fenceBeach dayThe sand on the beach is quite coarseThe public beachWaterfront buildings lit at nightThe marina at Camogli
After travelling by train to Firenze we picked up a rental car and headed north to the Ligurian coast and the small coastal village of Camogli.
We have visited here a number of times before and love the relaxed nature of the town and the lack of tourists – except those from Italy. This is a place where those from Milano and Torino go for their holidays.
First off though, a shout out to the lovely Fabio who manages the Avis rental depot on Borgo Ognissanti in Firenze where we picked up our car.
Fabio took one look at the size of our bags and gave us an immediate upgrade to a larger vehicle – for free. He said we simply would not have fitted into the car we booked. He also gave us his email so if we had any problems we could contact him personally. Excellent customer service Fabio and the best way to start any driving experience in Italy.
Two and a half hours after leaving Firenze we were driving through Camogli. It was not our finest effort as we drove through the controlled part of the town – which is barriered off – and arrived at our hotel via a one way road the wrong way. The valets at the hotel thought this was hilarious.
We agree as we’ve been here many times before without incident – we blamed it on Covid and the 4 years it’s been since our last visit.
This is our home for the next 6 nights – a chance to relax, eat great food, drink some of the local wine and wander through the village. After the bustle of Rome and Venice, this is a welcome break.
Having already published some Venice pictures, here are some more that we think might be interesting.
The torre in Piazza San MarcoHeron on a boat watching us arrive – a good omen according to AlariaAperol Spritz in the afternoonTrying to pass as a localJean liked the glass sculpture in the hotel lobby – but they would probably miss itAn evening in Piazza San Marco
Venice is a magical place. Over 4 days we have walked the narrow streets and alleyways, climbed more bridges across canals than you can count, and sat and people-watched in piazza’s ranging from the grand Piazza San Marco through to postage stamp sized ones tucked into the tiny spaces away from the crowds that define Venice.
We have eaten, yes, we have eaten. Whether it’s a simple sandwich and a coffee in one of the cafes in Piazza San Marco or dinner at our favourite restaurant Ristorante Da Ivo tucked away in a little back street which takes a bit of finding, the food has been exceptional.
But now we are leaving, with bags a little heavier from shopping and our wallets a little lighter from prices that can seem extreme.
And Venice is expensive. We remembered that from 24 years ago and it has not changed. But remember this is a truly unique place. For example, everything on the island is delivered by boat and then by handcart through the crowded alleys to shops and restaurants. That is an expensive process.
When we left, the hotel kindly arranged a luxury water taxi for our trip to Santa Lucia station – which was a fantastic way to say good bye. After arriving at the station we negotiated our way past the many porters offering to take our bags to the train for 20 Euro (about $NZ35 – no grazie) and we rolled out of Venice to our next stop – a week by the sea, on the Ligurian Coast.
An evening in VeniceDrinks at Cafe FlorianPiazza San MarcoOur favourite restaurantFrom our hotel roomGondolas near the Grand CanalCrowds as far as the eye can seeCanals in VeniceA glimpse of Ponte RialtoLunch in Piazza San MarcoJean loitering at the front of the hotelOn our trip to the train stationAhhhh, VenicePiazza San Marco from the waterGondoliFarewell Londra PalaceNegotiating the canals
After a 4 hour train trip from Rome, we arrived in Venice. The only train station I’m aware of with a canal running past its front. There to greet us was Alaria. She had organised a water taxi which took us and our bags through the canals of Venice, eventually reaching the Londra Palace. Our home for the next 4 days.
It’s a lovely hotel which has, in one guise or another, been receiving guests since 1857. It has both a bar and restaurant with terraces that look over the water.
If you are planning a trip to Venice then this could well be the relaxing retreat from the summer madness you are looking for.
We spent a day wandering around Rome – visiting some places we’ve seen before and adding a few new ones to the list.
We also took our first selfie – not sure why.
The Trevi Fountain Crowds at the Trevi FountainFirst selfie – hmmmSecond selfie – betterThe back streets of RomeThe Pantheon – recently a charge was introduced to manage the number of visitorsFontana delle PantheonThe missus, a picture of elegance in a sea of worn sneakers and ill fitting t-shirtsPiazza NavonaBernini fountain in Piazza NavonaThird selfie – winner
The queue to enter the Pantheon – not sure if the new charge has worked.
Hotel rooms in Rome are often slightly weird. Because they have to work with the existing building layout there can be some unusual layouts. Ours is long and winding, but the plus is the outside terrace and what comes with it.
Given the 30 degree heat, the sauna didn’t offer a lot of value, but the rest of the terrace was priceless.
After many hours travel we arrived in Rome yesterday. Everything went as it should – we made our connections, our bags arrived and all our transfers when smoothly although the final leg – a train from Milan to Rome and a taxi to the hotel was done with us largely asleep as the local time of 8pm meant our bodies had some catching up to do.
It was great to sleep in a real bed at Hotel Barocco – despite waking at about 6am with an overwhelming desire for dinner.
So soon after, we sat down to a three course dinner masquerading as the Barocco breakfast – pastries, cheeses and cold meats, fresh fruit, eggs, rolls and the inevitable cups of cappuccino.
The perfect way to start a day in Rome.
The view from our terrace – early morning in Rome.Hotel Bernini Bristol made famous in the book The Da Vinci CodeOur first breakfast in RomeMore breakfast in RomeA great way to start the day
On the train from Milan to Rome – bored and tired at 157 km/h
We last visited Venice in 1999. That would be 24 years ago.
Although the memories have blurred with time, we have evidence of the trip in the form of the the photographs taken – with a Nikon 35mm film camera – as iPhones weren’t invented until 8 years later.
Looking at these shots, clearly neither of us have aged a day since then.
We are looking forward seeing the city again.
We will be back there is a fortnight and are staying on the Island at the Londra Palace. We have trips to both Murano and Burano planned and we may even spend a day at the Lido if the pull of a beach day becomes too strong.
From what we hear Venice will be crowded, with an inundation of day trippers. Hopefully the evenings will be quieter – and we can, once again, enjoy an aperitivo at Caffe Florian in Piazza San Marco listening to the music.
A short video using footage from our 1999 visit to Venice.
Prior to Covid our route to Italy was well trodden. Cathay Pacific to Rome via Hong Kong with a taste of Air New Zealand on the trip home – the last leg being a code share between the two airlines.
Given our combined height of 373 centimetres we like a bit of extra leg room – so when we have the opportunity we fly premium economy. Apart from the legroom, the bonus is a quieter cabin and nicer food and drink. All this for a price pitched midway between economy and business.
But when we came to book our trip this year things had changed.
Some routes weren’t being flown – so no Cathay leg from Hong Kong to Rome – and the prices of the alternatives had gone up – a lot. Some fares had almost doubled.
Enter Emirates and their new Premium Economy service which offered all we needed. The price also seemed reasonable when compared to the other options available.
We’ve read good things about it in various reviews so are looking forward to trying it – in two weeks time.
It’s the shortest day of the year. Our place is devoid of sun, the weather is damp and things are truly bleak. But there is a light at the end of the tunnel.
We are only 5 weeks away from our first overseas holiday in 4 years. We are going back to Italy – for 6 weeks of summer sun, food and drink.
Expired passports have been renewed, new suitcases have been purchased and an itinerary that includes Rome, Venice, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast has been finalised.
As we sit here in the winter darkness and cold, the lure of long hot summer evenings, days by the pool, and all the hospitality that Italy has on offer beckons.
We have friends to catch up with and familiar places to reacquaint ourselves with.
