On our regular walk from Casetta Arienzo to Positano we see some spectacular views. This one is a bit different – it’s the Positano cemetery which you can see at the top of the picture – located on a hill high above the village.
Walking to Positano
Tag Archives: Italian
A day at the beach
Yesterday we visited Fornillo Beach and the Pupetto Beach Club. Fornillo Beach is one bay around from the main Positano beach and, as a result, a lot quieter. It’s quite a hike to get there as you walk around the coast on a path that rises and falls with the terrain and in today’s 39 degrees it tested our stamina but we made it and settled in for the day.
Beach clubs are common in Italy – a relaxed restaurant at the back of the beach and rows of umbrellas and loungers in front going right to the waters edge. There are staff constantly patrolling the loungers taking orders for drink and food – or lunch can be had in the restaurant if desired.
The Pupetto Beach Club is part of the Pupetto Hotel which is partly set in the cliff and partly hanging off the cliff above Fornillo Beach. The hotel looks great – we got an unofficial tour as we walked through it to get to the beach club looking at bit out of place in our beach attire.
Lunch was the least Italian meal we have had – cheeseburger and fries and a chicken salad. It tasted great and we needed that.
Walking home
Casetta Arienzo is about 800m from Eden Roc hotel and the intersection where the road through Positano village meets the main road to Amalfi. From here we can walk down to the village or stop at the hotel for breakfast, a day by the pool or dinner – or all three.
We do this walk pretty much every day so we forget how spectacular it is – with cliffs on both sides, the ones above us reaching skyward and the ones on the other side falling down to the sea. This afternoon I grabbed a shot of the cliff above the road as we walked back to Casetta Arienzo. Behind Jean the view to the ocean is equally spectacular.
This week is hot
Italy – and other parts of Europe – have had a warm summer. Each day this week the temperature in Positano is reaching around 39 degrees. That is warm.
It means that life has to adjust accordingly with more time spent doing very little and more time spent in the shade or in air conditioning.
Yesterday was a case in point. We were planning to have lunch at Casa Bottega in the village. It was a walk of about 1km down hill to get there so we geared up with water and hats and the minimum amount of clothing we could wear without being arrested. Casa Bottega is a small cafe with great food and air conditioning. But it is shut Mondays, something we only found out when we arrived at the front door. It was about 1pm and it was hot, really hot.
New plan – Jean has spotted another cafe on the walk which we returned to called Ohimà. It had both an inside and outside area. The kind waiter asked us “inside or outside” with a wry smile already shepherding us towards the inside with its cool air conditioning.
It took us 10 minutes to recover from the heat – to take in water and for our clothes to dry off.
Lunch was great and an excellent way to wile away an hour or two with great authentic cuisine and wine – before we head out to take on the heat again – walking up hill to our place.
Luckily mid way between the restaurant and home there is Li Galli Bar. It has spectacular views across the bay and friendly staff we have come to know. It straddles the main road through the village with the kitchen on one side and the tables on the other. So every drink or meal or chair or umbrella has to run the gauntlet of the road. This is expertly managed by the staff and we have yet to see a casualty of any sort.
It is the ideal place to break the walk home – but yesterday the heat meant a short stop – just sitting still in the shade was exhausting. The staff even suggested we head somewhere cooler after our drink, no “altro giro” today.
With the same weather forecast for the rest of the week it will mean more days by the hotel pool and less exploring the area. No great sacrifice there.
Misting to keep cool
The temperature here is around 32-34 degrees at present – which is quite warm. To counter this, some restaurants and cafes have fan systems which spray mist into the atmosphere to make customers more comfortable.
La Zagara, about half way between the beach and our place, is one such cafe. We stopped there yesterday afternoon to break the long and hot uphill walk, and to partake of a cold beverage or two.
Not sure if it was the misting or the drinks, but we felt much better after our stop.
Famous friends
At this time of year, you never know who is staying in and around Positano. Ben and Jennifer are saying at Villa TreVille on the point below our casetta – it’s his birthday this month so they are celebrating locally. Rooms and suites at the villa start at E3,000 a night, up to E15,000 a night.
And when we were having lunch earlier this week guests at the next table included Jemima Goldsmith (Khan) and her current partner. You never know who will pop up in Positano.
And now Positano
Until the end of August we are in Positano. We have, once again, rented Casetta Arienzo for our stay. It is owned by the Casola family who also own Eden Roc hotel – so we have a small villa to ourselves while also having all the benefits of the hotel which we can use. This includes the restaurant, pool and, of course, the bar.
All these have been enjoyed in the few days we have been here as the temperature has been in the the low/mid thirties – when hydration and keeping cool is important.
The casetta has been renovated since our last visit which has made the stay even more enjoyable.
Life is slowing down and we are starting to merge into the background.
Friends
This week we have been out and about in Tuscany with friends. We have known Dani and Olga for many years. We got to know them when Olga helped us find villas to stay in and our friendship has grown since then. It has been 4 years since we last saw them so it was great to reconnect.
We have been spoilt this last week with dinners and days out. Tina, our friend from back hom who has spent the last few weeks holidaying in Positano. She came north for a few days so we could all catch up.
We have visited some great restaurants and eaten so well. But the most special meal was at Dani and Olga’s place – a kiwi barbecue – with friends Matteo and Francesca who own Pornanino Olive Oil farm which produces some of the finest olive oil we have ever tasted.
Olga and Dani, thank you so much for making our visit so memorable.
Footnote: The barbecue we used is a Lotus Grill charcoal barbecue. It’s a very clever design that burns charcoal but is pretty much smokeless. It’s a really clever piece of kit designed in Germany. Fathers Day isn’t far away …
A wander around San Felice
San Felice is a luxury hotel complex located in the heart of Chianti. It is an old village that has been bought and developed as a hotel, while still retaining the feel of a typical Tuscan village.
It is a magical place with 30 suites and 29 rooms plus two churches, a range of shops, a spa, a winery as well as two restaurants, one of which has just received their first Michelin star.
Our friends Dani and Olga showed us around and we spent a hour or so wandering through the Borgo and tasting wine in the cellar room which was lovely.
This could well be a stop on our next trip.
Wednesday was Siena day
Every time we visit Tuscany we make a pilgrimage to Siena. It was our local town for 6 months in 2011 and we take the chance to revisit some old haunts whenever we return.
Siena is famous for the Palio – a bare-back horse race that occurs twice a year (July and August) when local communities or contrada can enter a horse in the race with the victor having the honour that comes with winning. We have mixed views of the event – the drama, excitement and passion around the race is infectious but horses can often get injured or even killed during the event.
To prepare for the race, the central piazza in Siena – the Campo – is turned into a race track with a layer of clay laid down over the tiles and cobbles and gradually compacted over the weeks prior to the event.
Temporary wooden grandstands ring the Campo so the large crowd that attend the event has somewhere to get the best view.
When we arrived on Wednesday the track was down and all the bars and restaurants that ring the Campo had their tables and chairs set up on the track. Because of the temporary grandstands, they also have to squeeze their tables into a smaller area to allow people to walk past.
And once a day, at 3pm, the bars and restaurants have to remove all their hardware as the track is watered to help the clay compact. No one is allowed on the track so the Campo comes to a standstill.
Once the clay has dried enough – after about 2 hours – the tables and chairs, and people are allowed back on the track and Siena’s Campo returns to normal.
Return to Tuscany
On Monday we arrived in Radda in Chianti, our home for the next few days. Radda is a hill top village located between Firenze and Siena in the Chianti hills.
We have stayed at Relais Vignale before and it’s a great base to discover the Chanti region and all it has to offer. The hotel spans several buildings, all in a style which is called “toscana rustica” – the same style as the stone villas and cottages we all see in photos of Tuscany.
We were lucky enough to have our room upgraded to a junior suite so we now have an enormous room and a courtyard outside where we can sit in the evenings.
The style of food has also changed – from the seafood of Venice and Liguria to the meat and poultry of Tuscany. On Monday night we ate chicken and steak, expertly prepared in the hotel restaurant – all washed down with a fine bottle of local chianti.
The next few days will see us catch up with our dear friends who live here as well as explore some of the local towns and villages.
An evening at the terrazzo bar
This post is a blatant attempt to justify sitting at the terrace bar at our hotel in Camogli for a couple of hours drinking and nibbling on bar snacks – by saying it was all an excuse to take this series of sunset pictures as the afternoon transformed into evening.
Yes, we have reached that point. There was no locked off tripod or set exposure – just me waving my phone above my head every so often and taking a picture. Half of the shots were out of focus the rest wobbled around to the point where Photoshop was the only way to vaguely line them up.
But we really need no excuse to sit there – we love the terrace bar, it’s excellent staff, perfect drinks, the tasty bar snacks that arrived unprompted, and it’s ever changing view.
Camogli life
We have been in Camogli for just under a week and life has settled into an easy routine. Time by the pool, time in the village and time doing bugger all else.
This week we are getting away from it all
After travelling by train to Firenze we picked up a rental car and headed north to the Ligurian coast and the small coastal village of Camogli.
We have visited here a number of times before and love the relaxed nature of the town and the lack of tourists – except those from Italy. This is a place where those from Milano and Torino go for their holidays.
First off though, a shout out to the lovely Fabio who manages the Avis rental depot on Borgo Ognissanti in Firenze where we picked up our car.
Fabio took one look at the size of our bags and gave us an immediate upgrade to a larger vehicle – for free. He said we simply would not have fitted into the car we booked. He also gave us his email so if we had any problems we could contact him personally. Excellent customer service Fabio and the best way to start any driving experience in Italy.
Two and a half hours after leaving Firenze we were driving through Camogli. It was not our finest effort as we drove through the controlled part of the town – which is barriered off – and arrived at our hotel via a one way road the wrong way. The valets at the hotel thought this was hilarious.
We agree as we’ve been here many times before without incident – we blamed it on Covid and the 4 years it’s been since our last visit.
This is our home for the next 6 nights – a chance to relax, eat great food, drink some of the local wine and wander through the village. After the bustle of Rome and Venice, this is a welcome break.
A little more of Venice
Having already published some Venice pictures, here are some more that we think might be interesting.
La dolce far niente 