Friends

Posted on August 17, 2023 by toscanakiwi

This week we have been out and about in Tuscany with friends. We have known Dani and Olga for many years. We got to know them when Olga helped us find villas to stay in and our friendship has grown since then. It has been 4 years since we last saw them so it was great to reconnect.

We have been spoilt this last week with dinners and days out. Tina, our friend from back hom who has spent the last few weeks holidaying in Positano. She came north for a few days so we could all catch up.

We have visited some great restaurants and eaten so well. But the most special meal was at Dani and Olga’s place – a kiwi barbecue – with friends Matteo and Francesca who own Pornanino Olive Oil farm which produces some of the finest olive oil we have ever tasted.

Olga and Dani, thank you so much for making our visit so memorable.

Footnote: The barbecue we used is a Lotus Grill charcoal barbecue. It’s a very clever design that burns charcoal but is pretty much smokeless. It’s a really clever piece of kit designed in Germany. Fathers Day isn’t far away …

A wander around San Felice

Posted on August 15, 2023 by toscanakiwi

San Felice is a luxury hotel complex located in the heart of Chianti. It is an old village that has been bought and developed as a hotel, while still retaining the feel of a typical Tuscan village.

It is a magical place with 30 suites and 29 rooms plus two churches, a range of shops, a spa, a winery as well as two restaurants, one of which has just received their first Michelin star.

Our friends Dani and Olga showed us around and we spent a hour or so wandering through the Borgo and tasting wine in the cellar room which was lovely.

This could well be a stop on our next trip.

Wednesday was Siena day

Posted on August 13, 2023 by toscanakiwi

Every time we visit Tuscany we make a pilgrimage to Siena. It was our local town for 6 months in 2011 and we take the chance to revisit some old haunts whenever we return.

Siena is famous for the Palio – a bare-back horse race that occurs twice a year (July and August) when local communities or contrada can enter a horse in the race with the victor having the honour that comes with winning. We have mixed views of the event – the drama, excitement and passion around the race is infectious but horses can often get injured or even killed during the event.

To prepare for the race, the central piazza in Siena – the Campo – is turned into a race track with a layer of clay laid down over the tiles and cobbles and gradually compacted over the weeks prior to the event.

Temporary wooden grandstands ring the Campo so the large crowd that attend the event has somewhere to get the best view.

When we arrived on Wednesday the track was down and all the bars and restaurants that ring the Campo had their tables and chairs set up on the track. Because of the temporary grandstands, they also have to squeeze their tables into a smaller area to allow people to walk past.

And once a day, at 3pm, the bars and restaurants have to remove all their hardware as the track is watered to help the clay compact. No one is allowed on the track so the Campo comes to a standstill.

Once the clay has dried enough – after about 2 hours – the tables and chairs, and people are allowed back on the track and Siena’s Campo returns to normal.

Return to Tuscany

Posted on August 11, 2023 by toscanakiwi

On Monday we arrived in Radda in Chianti, our home for the next few days. Radda is a hill top village located between Firenze and Siena in the Chianti hills.

We have stayed at Relais Vignale before and it’s a great base to discover the Chanti region and all it has to offer. The hotel spans several buildings, all in a style which is called “toscana rustica” – the same style as the stone villas and cottages we all see in photos of Tuscany.

We were lucky enough to have our room upgraded to a junior suite so we now have an enormous room and a courtyard outside where we can sit in the evenings.

The style of food has also changed – from the seafood of Venice and Liguria to the meat and poultry of Tuscany. On Monday night we ate chicken and steak, expertly prepared in the hotel restaurant – all washed down with a fine bottle of local chianti.

The next few days will see us catch up with our dear friends who live here as well as explore some of the local towns and villages.

An evening at the terrazzo bar

Posted on August 7, 2023 by toscanakiwi

This post is a blatant attempt to justify sitting at the terrace bar at our hotel in Camogli for a couple of hours drinking and nibbling on bar snacks – by saying it was all an excuse to take this series of sunset pictures as the afternoon transformed into evening.

Yes, we have reached that point. There was no locked off tripod or set exposure – just me waving my phone above my head every so often and taking a picture. Half of the shots were out of focus the rest wobbled around to the point where Photoshop was the only way to vaguely line them up.

But we really need no excuse to sit there – we love the terrace bar, it’s excellent staff, perfect drinks, the tasty bar snacks that arrived unprompted, and it’s ever changing view.

Camogli life

Posted on August 7, 2023 by toscanakiwi

We have been in Camogli for just under a week and life has settled into an easy routine. Time by the pool, time in the village and time doing bugger all else.

Dinner accompanied by the sound of the sea

This week we are getting away from it all

Posted on August 6, 2023 by toscanakiwi

After travelling by train to Firenze we picked up a rental car and headed north to the Ligurian coast and the small coastal village of Camogli.

We have visited here a number of times before and love the relaxed nature of the town and the lack of tourists – except those from Italy. This is a place where those from Milano and Torino go for their holidays.

First off though, a shout out to the lovely Fabio who manages the Avis rental depot on Borgo Ognissanti in Firenze where we picked up our car.

Fabio took one look at the size of our bags and gave us an immediate upgrade to a larger vehicle – for free. He said we simply would not have fitted into the car we booked. He also gave us his email so if we had any problems we could contact him personally. Excellent customer service Fabio and the best way to start any driving experience in Italy.

Two and a half hours after leaving Firenze we were driving through Camogli. It was not our finest effort as we drove through the controlled part of the town – which is barriered off – and arrived at our hotel via a one way road the wrong way. The valets at the hotel thought this was hilarious.

We agree as we’ve been here many times before without incident – we blamed it on Covid and the 4 years it’s been since our last visit.

This is our home for the next 6 nights – a chance to relax, eat great food, drink some of the local wine and wander through the village. After the bustle of Rome and Venice, this is a welcome break.

A little more of Venice

Posted on August 3, 2023 by toscanakiwi

Having already published some Venice pictures, here are some more that we think might be interesting.

Imminent Danger

Posted on August 3, 2023 by toscanakiwi

This scene may look idyllic but the couple in the photo are in imminent danger. The clues are the two small triangular marks on the umbrella.

That is a seagull standing on the umbrella waiting – waiting to steal the couple’s dinner.

If you look closely, the sandwiches are under a cover for protection but even then a moment’s inattention and the hunter will pounce.

Let the games begin.

Out and about in Venice

Posted on August 3, 2023 by toscanakiwi

Venice is a magical place. Over 4 days we have walked the narrow streets and alleyways, climbed more bridges across canals than you can count, and sat and people-watched in piazza’s ranging from the grand Piazza San Marco through to postage stamp sized ones tucked into the tiny spaces away from the crowds that define Venice.

We have eaten, yes, we have eaten. Whether it’s a simple sandwich and a coffee in one of the cafes in Piazza San Marco or dinner at our favourite restaurant Ristorante Da Ivo tucked away in a little back street which takes a bit of finding, the food has been exceptional.

But now we are leaving, with bags a little heavier from shopping and our wallets a little lighter from prices that can seem extreme.

And Venice is expensive. We remembered that from 24 years ago and it has not changed. But remember this is a truly unique place. For example, everything on the island is delivered by boat and then by handcart through the crowded alleys to shops and restaurants. That is an expensive process.

When we left, the hotel kindly arranged a luxury water taxi for our trip to Santa Lucia station – which was a fantastic way to say good bye. After arriving at the station we negotiated our way past the many porters offering to take our bags to the train for 20 Euro (about $NZ35 – no grazie) and we rolled out of Venice to our next stop – a week by the sea, on the Ligurian Coast.

Arriving in Venice

Posted on July 31, 2023 by toscanakiwi

After a 4 hour train trip from Rome, we arrived in Venice. The only train station I’m aware of with a canal running past its front. There to greet us was Alaria. She had organised a water taxi which took us and our bags through the canals of Venice, eventually reaching the Londra Palace. Our home for the next 4 days.

It’s a lovely hotel which has, in one guise or another, been receiving guests since 1857. It has both a bar and restaurant with terraces that look over the water.

If you are planning a trip to Venice then this could well be the relaxing retreat from the summer madness you are looking for.

Arriving at the hotel and our room with a view

Out and about in Rome

Posted on July 30, 2023 by toscanakiwi

We spent a day wandering around Rome – visiting some places we’ve seen before and adding a few new ones to the list.

We also took our first selfie – not sure why.

The queue to enter the Pantheon – not sure if the new charge has worked.

Italy calling

Posted on June 22, 2023 by toscanakiwi

It’s the shortest day of the year. Our place is devoid of sun, the weather is damp and things are truly bleak. But there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

We are only 5 weeks away from our first overseas holiday in 4 years. We are going back to Italy – for 6 weeks of summer sun, food and drink.

Expired passports have been renewed, new suitcases have been purchased and an itinerary that includes Rome, Venice, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast has been finalised.

As we sit here in the winter darkness and cold, the lure of long hot summer evenings, days by the pool, and all the hospitality that Italy has on offer beckons.

We have friends to catch up with and familiar places to reacquaint ourselves with.

We cannot wait.

Heading south

Posted on August 26, 2019 by toscanakiwi

View from our villa – hazy weather means Capri is shrouded in the distance

Yesterday we travelled from Camogli (south of Genova) to Positano (just south of Napoli). The 2 hour drive to Firenze to catch the train south was negotiated successfully – including the Firenze one way system which is always a challenge.

It felt like it was going to be a good day.

As it was Saturday the rental car office was frantic (most villa rentals run for a week from Saturday to Saturday) with tourist picking up cars. The queue went out of the office and down the street – quite hard work for those waiting in the 32 degree heat.

We drove past all this chaos, into the garage, was met by a lovely Avis rep who checked the car (no dents this time), helped with our bags, ordered a taxi for us and handed me a receipt in about 3 minutes flat.

It was really looking like a good day.

The taxi dropped us at the organised chaos that is Firenze train station with time to spare for our train. Luckily we could escape the chaos as our tickets included access to the Frecciarossa lounge – an air-conditioned haven of peace, tranquility, free beverages and snacks.

Jean discovered the shopping mall under the station and disappeared for a few minutes returning successfully with “that t-shirt top she’d been looking for” and “something to wear by the pool”.

The train trip south was 3 hours. We arrived in Napoli at 5pm and were greeted by our driver Enzo on the platform. An hour later we were in a warm and slightly muggy Positano being greeted by the Eden Roc team.

Definitely a good day.

Last day in Camogli

Posted on August 24, 2019 by toscanakiwi

Today we leave Camogli and head south to Positano. We have thoroughly enjoyed both our time here at Cenobio Dei Dogi and our time exploring the village.

Would we come back – like a shot.

As always it’s about the place but also the people you meet. After 6 days of turning up at the same places for meals and drinks, exploring the village on foot (it’s not a big village so there’s not much walking involved) and generally settling in we are starting to be recognised. The fact that we are from New Zealand is a surprise and the start of a conversation. And that’s what it’s all about.