Tag Archives: Italian

Casa e Bottega – revisited

Posted on by

One of our favourite places in Positano is Casa e Bottega. We wrote a story about it last year and we were keen to revisit this year. Checking our schedule of events – yes we have one, but that’s another story – Tuesday was the allocated day we walked down to the village for lunch at the cafe.

Casa e Bottega is both a cafe and an arts and craft store which, for one of us is dangerous. Last year we bought a ceramic jug for the kitchen which Jean then nursed home wrapped in copious layers of bubble wrap in her carry on luggage.

Bad news, this year the moment we walked in she spotted this years purchase, another jug which will go well with the one we bought last year. I am seeing the start of a dangerous trend here.

As always the food was excellent and the company of the staff and owner, the lovely Vito (who also owns the Palazzo Murat Hotel) was delightful. He confirmed what we had felt from day one, that the village is less busy and more relaxed than last year with less people visiting on day trips.

For him that meant a hotel that was still fully booked during the peak season but less people spending at the bars and restaurants. Given how frantic last year was, he genuinely thought this was a good thing. A sentiment echoed by everyone else we have talked with this trip.

One thing about the Casa I had forgotten were the two resident dogs who have free rein of the cafe, sleeping in their beds in one corner, walking around being patted by the patrons, or simply lying down wherever they want. Being dog owners separated from our girls, it was great to be able have a pat or have a head laid on your knee for a gentle rub.

A broom, a broom, my kingdom for a broom

Posted on by

Those of you who know Jean well are aware of her need to clean. She cleans the house after our cleaner has been, she vacuums on a regular basis – daily over the weekend. It’s a type of therapy I think.

When we returned from Europe after our stay in 2011 one of the few items shipped home was the vacuum cleaner Jean had bought in Italy and which was in the back of our car and visited 4 countries with us (all of which were cleaner when we left) before it was shipped to New Zealand. We have it still.

Jean cleans not because she has too, but simply because she can.

So yesterday afternoon she was at the reception desk in the hotel trying to ask two slightly bemused and confused staff members for a broom. No not a cleaner to come to the villa, just a broom and a pan so she could keep the terrace and the apartment tidy. To their credit, there was a broom and pan waiting for us when we got back to the villa about 30 mins later. Much to her delight.

Flying High with Emirates

Posted on by

Thank you Emirates. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in your business class cabin on route to Rome. It felt like the golden age of flying when it was more than just a way to get from A to B, but rather was an experience in it’s own right.

There was room to spread out, great food and drink, and service that was unmatched. Nothing was too much trouble for your wonderful staff and how you managed to produce my pan-fried beef tenderloin served with thyme jus, mashed potatoes and blanched broccoli in an aeroplane at 40,000 feet is a mystery to me.

Emirates pride themselves on their diversity of crew and our cabin was served by a team brought together from all corners of the globe. All with a single-minded focus to ensure our trip was as relaxed and enjoyable as possible.

And to top off the experience, there is the cocktail bar at the rear of their cabin. The ideal place to stretch you legs, meet fellow travellers, enjoy a quiet drink and, in Jean’s case, make new friends.

I said previously that we were Premium Economy travellers – and while that is a great experience, this was special. The chance to upgrade was well worth the extra cost and has made us rethink how we will travel in future.

And yes Emirates, this post is a shameless attempt to get the offer of an upgrade when we return home in September.

Jean making friends at 40,000 feet
There’s even a place for your hat
Champagne seemed to feature large in our trip
Me trying to look cool but failing dismally

Photos and more photos

Posted on by

We’ve been home from Italy for just over a month. Time for us to settle back into home life, sort through all the photographs we’ve taken, and load a selection into a holiday gallery on SmugMug.

If you’d like to see some shots from the blog and some new ones you won’t have seen, click here.

All the photos were taken using iPhones – as opposed to the usual Nikon camera back and lenses I have lugged to Europe in the past. All in all, apart from not having any real control over the depth of field, they look pretty good.

Food glorious food

Posted on by

We left Rome on a high note – from a culinary viewpoint. Our two last nights were dining out – at Aroma next to the colosseum and then at La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri.

Aroma has one Michelin star and La Pergola has three – so we were expecting fireworks. And we got them.

Aroma offers a range of degustation menus to choose from, excellent service and a view from your table that is quite spectacular. La Pergola offers both degustation and al la carte menus, immaculate service and views across Rome.

The staff at Hotel Barocco were interested in our comparison between the two as one of the front desk staff is the cousin of the chef at Aroma.

it’s fair to say that both provide exquisite food and a fine wine list. And both delight with small surprises as the meal progresses.

There is a formality at La Pergola which comes with three Michelin stars – there’s someone to escort you to the toilets, just to make sure you don’t get lost and while you’re gone a fresh napkin is provided at the table for no reason other than your old one was wrinkled. Their mineral water list is longer than almost any other restaurant’s wine list and your meal is timed to perfection – they know how long to leave between courses – so all you need to do is concentrate on the food.

Aroma feels younger and slightly edgier. There is a fraction less precision but that comes across as less formality. Given their menu approach, food and wines are matched which is a real treat and we lingered longer there to chat with the staff.

Which one is better – we couldn’t call it. So the question we posed ourselves was – if we were taking someone out to dinner in Rome and wanted to surprise and delight them which would we choose?

It would be Aroma, but only by a wafer thin margin.

The view from Aroma
Chef’s start at Aroma
Watermelon, oyster and sea lettuce
Raw red prawn veils, warm Provolone del Monaco cheese and truffle
Mezzi naccheri pasta, marinated scorpion fish, lemon gel and black garlic
Sweet surprises
Apricot, caramel and elderberry
Cheers Aroma
The terrace at La Pergola
Turbot, marinated sweet pepper and Mediterranean flavours
Fillet of veal on tomato and basil textures
A filing cabinet of sweet treats
The terrace at La Pergola in Rome
The view across Rome from La Pergola
Drawers of sweet treats at La Pergola

And now we are home

Posted on by

After 7 weeks away, we landed in Wellington a few days ago. As you get older the jet lag becomes harder to recover from. I’ve been waking early in the morning with an overwhelming desire for dinner and then falling asleep again mid afternoon. Quite normal some might say.

On the way home we stopped in Dubai for 10 hours. Our lovely travel agent Petra, had organised a room at the Dubai International Hotel so we could shower and grab a few hours sleep. It was brilliant. Because the hotel was air-side we were met at our arrival gate and taken to the hotel with no need to enter Dubai. The hotel operates 24/7 – so we were able to have dinner at 1am before grabbing some much needed sleep.

In the room was an electric massage chair which one of us couldn’t resist trying – even when jet lagged and tired.

Tired Jean in the massage chair

And the award for the best breakfast in Italy goes too …

Posted on by

Over the last few weeks we have experienced a range of breakfasts from a range of hotels. Some have been buffet, some al la carte, but all have been excellent quality and vast in the range of items they include.

But now we need to get serious and pick the best. There can be only one winner.

After much deliberation the winning breakfast goes to Hotel Barocco and their fine al la carte effort. The coffee is superb, the welcome treats of fruit, cakes, cheese and meats are delightful and the eggs with whatever you wish to accompany them are delicious.

Only a whisker behind is the breakfast is Eden Roc Hotel where our friend Tony runs the show. Tony has looked after us so well – with special treats each morning and a Prosecco to start the day. He has also made sure we left every morning with a package of pastries “for later” at Casetta Arienzo.

Welcome treats from Barocco
The best cappuccino of the trip
Perfect poached eggs
Eden Roc breakfast – with a view

Hard Rock – there’s nothing better

Posted on by

It was our first night in Rome. Big decision – where to eat dinner? We sat at the bar outside the hotel and were discussing this weighty problem when we saw someone walking past carrying a doggie bag from the Hard Rock Cafe. We had gone there in 1999 when we were in Rome – not sure why – and we still have the branded glasses and t shirt in the attic at home.

A few minutes later we saw another bag go by. This got us to thinking.

To be honest I thought Hard Rock place didn’t exist any more. In my mind it was an icon of the 90s which went broke along with Planet Hollywood and other themed restaurants of the era.

A quick google proved me wrong – it was alive and well and about 200 metres up the road on Via Veneto. At that point the Prosecco and Aperol Spritz kicked in and we found ourselves heading there for dinner – a blast from the past.

I was amazed, the place was thumping. And after a diet of fine Italian food we were looking forward to burgers and fries. And yes Josh, buffalo wings so hot they meant I couldn’t taste anything much after the starter.

We had a blast and ended up in the souvenir shop – and have another Hard Rock t-shirt.

Rock on.

Back to Rome for a few days

Posted on by

On Saturday we moved from the Amalfi Coast to Rome. An hour and a half from Positano to Naples by car and 60 mins from there by high speed train to Rome.

Rome is still busy but the temperature has dropped from seven weeks ago from mid/late 30s to around 30 so life is much easier. Everyone seems more relaxed but the place is still packed with tourists.

It was great to get back to Hotel Barocco and to catch up with Fabio who runs reception with style and efficiency. This is a boutique hotel but the quality and friendliness of staff makes it stand out. If you are visiting Rome, please try it.

Our room also makes things special as we booked one of their junior suites with a view across Piazza Barberini. It’s decorated in shades of white and cream so Jean was delighted. it was her kind of room – hence both the photos and the movie.

We now have 3 days before our flight home which will be spent exploring the city, catching up on those last minute presents, as well as eating out. We have booked two restaurants for dinner – Aroma next to the colosseum and La Pergola in Hotel Cavalieri which is, I believe, the only 3 star Michelin restaurant in the city.

Updates to follow.

Jean in her private carriage
Our cream room at Barocco
More cream room
My view of Jean when she’s shopping
Via Tritone full of people
The movie of the room

Superyacht spotting 2

Posted on by

Important update – Nero has a slide!

Suddenly that 525,000 Euro is looking much better value.

Superyacht spotting

Posted on by

No visit to Positano would be complete without some mention of superyachts.

When we arrived the bay was peppered wth these toys of the rich and famous but in the last few days the numbers have dwindled. Apparently they aren’t fans of rainy weather.

However, one turned up today which looked pretty special. It had wonderful retro lines reminiscent of the 50s and 60s.

Its name is Nero, it is 90m long and it can accommodate 12 guests in 6 cabins looked after by 20 crew. It is available for charter for 525,000 Euro a week – which is quite a lot of money.

But if you can find 12 people to split the cost it’s only 43,750 Euro per person or 6,250 Euro per day – which is still quite a lot.

Nero – available for charter from Burgess Yachts.

Casa e Bottega

Posted on by

Today the rain stopped and the sun came out. The bonus was the temperature was lower than last week. So we set off at midday for the village to do some final shopping and have lunch at Casa e Bottega.

Casa e Bottega is a small cafe that also sells homewares made by local artists. Jugs, pots, bowls, table cloths, prints. We had lunch there last week and were keen to visit again before we leave this coming weekend.

The food was great and the staff were friendly, recognising us from our previous visit. This time we had the chance to talk to the owner – who also owns Palazzo Murat hotel and another restaurant in Positano. It was interesting that all the issues we have with tourism and hospitality in New Zealand they are grappling with here as well.

Our visit also gave Jean the chance to buy some things for the house as well as both of us having a great pranzo (lunch) – helped by the bottle of wine we managed to consume.

Casa e Bottega
Salmon Salad
Chicken Cutlets
Casa e Bottega store
Casa e Bottega fresh produce

Rainy days in Positano

Posted on by

After two weeks of sun and heat the weather in Positano has changed. It’s rained since Monday. Yesterday on and off and today pretty much continually so far.

The temperature has also dropped from mid to late 30s to mid 20s. And the humidity has gone.

Life is more comfortable but also, there’s less to do. We made a trip to the village yesterday for provisions, dodging the showers. On the way home we called into Galli Bar for a drink (sitting inside). There was a discussion with the staff about the weather and the fact that their business effectively stops when it rains – but also that in Positano there is little to do on wet days except stay inside, drink and watch Netflix.

Which they were doing yesterday and we will be doing today.

Distant rain
Coming closer
And here it is

Recovering

Posted on by

Saturday’s dinner at the hotel was a big night out. Sunday was a really quiet day – spent largely in bed recovering from matching his and hers hangovers.

Jean has discovered that her nemesis is Limoncello. Last night it was in the form of a Limoncello Spritz. Two of them after dinner made for a rowdy ride home (thank you Pascal for organising this) and a quiet day to follow.

We managed to get out of bed and to the local store for supplies around 7:30 – that evening.

It reminded me of something similar from our stay in 2011. It was late in the year – around the end of November – and the hotel was shutting. We had gone along for dinner but after that the lovely Carlo explained that all the opened wine stock had to be either drunk or thrown away. You can guess how that went – it was epic.

The next day no one felt great – hence the family photo taken mid-afternoon.

Positano – November 2011. Jean recovering from the hotel closing – Daisy and Poppy in support.

Dinner at Eden Roc Hotel

Posted on by

Saturday night we dined at the hotel. They have made major improvements to the restaurant in the last few years and it’s paying dividends as the patronage has increased considerably.

One new addition to the facilities is Terrazza Paradiso, a terrace sitting above the rest of the restaurant, open to the air and with a spectacular view of the village and sea below. The lovely Carlo, who runs the Adamo ed Eva restaurant at the hotel, managed to get us a table on the Terrazza for a magical dinner which ended with two drunk kiwis being driven home afterwards.

This meal was also the debut of one the dresses Jean bought in Sorrento when we visited on Friday.