Gentle readers, I have just updated our photo album with all the latest shots used on the blog and a bunch more. Click here to see them.
Tag Archives: Toscana
Summer continues in Tuscany
All around us the rhythm of the Tuscan countryside continues.
Fields of crops that were green and growing when we arrived have been harvested and plowed ready, waiting for next season.
The last week or so has seen hot settled weather. Temperatures have been in the low to mid 30s day after day prompting even the hardened locals to comment “troppo caldo” and roll their eyes skyward.
The countryside is dry and baked – under our Tuscan sun.
Chores in Florence
Having been back from Nice for a few days it was time to catch up on some chores. You know, those things you keep putting off because they are a bit difficult or mean going out of your way.
Well our chores revolved around a trip to Florence. Yes, alright, I can hear a chorus of “you poor hard-done-by things” reverberating around the world.
But, Florence is an hours drive away, and the parking is a bit of a trick, and it’s full of tourists, and it’s always warmer than around our place. Ok, reading this back it’s not really that much of a chore. And it is the birthplace of the Renaissance after all.
Anyway, we headed north on Wednesday with two planned chores and one that crept up on us over the last few days. My darling wife had an ear-ache – probably an ear infection. One of those that makes you miserable, hurts like hell and requires drugs – lots of them.
We decided to seek medical help in Florence because we had the name of an english speaking doctor who has a practice there – and we were going anyway.
On the drive north we called the doctor to find that, like most people in Italy, he was on holiday during August. He left some alternative places to visit, one of which was very close to the Duomo. Even we can find the Duomo in Florence so the plan was set.
We found the medical centre quite easily, signed in and waited for their ear specialist Dr Alonzo Attilio. He spoke very little English and our Italian is still a work in progress so things boded well for medical misadventure.
One thing we have noticed is that the Italian medical system – for people or dogs – seems very efficient. And sure enough our wait was only 5 minutes. We struggled to explain the ear problem to the Dr Alonzo but one look into Jean’s ear and he understood. He then explained, in great detail, what he was going to do to fix it none of which we understood.
Within ten minutes we knew what he had said – vaccum, prod, poke, vaccum, clean, prod, vaccum, syringe, poke, vaccum, a course of antibiotics, cortisone and pain klllers for an ear infection – grazie and arrivederci.
Jean said that if she had known what he was going to do she would have done a runner, so maybe a language barrier isn’t always a bad thing. Dr Alonzo must know his stuff as Jean’s ear is improving by the day.
On a happier note we then went to Tiffanys to collect a necklace for Jean and collected skin care products from the only pharmacy in Florence (or Siena) that stocks that particular brand – or in this case had to order them in especially for Jean.
On the way home we stopped at Piazza Michaelangelo which overlooks Florence and, along with about 1000 other visitors, took the classic photo of Florence.
All in all a successful day.
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- The classic photo of Florence from Piazza Michaelangelo
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- Jean and Florence
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- Panoramic view of Florence
A Top Gear Challenge
It was simple. Charmaine, Mike and James on a high speed train from Naples to Florence. Jean and I and the dogs in the mighty Peugeot doing the same trip aiming to arrive before the train so we could help them collect a rental car and then follow us to our place south of Siena.
As with all Top Gear challenges there was a twist. We left Positano at 11am and drove hell for leather north to Florence – a five and a half hour trip. They left Naples at 1:50pm and were due to arrive in Florence at 4:50pm.
It was always going to be tight. But I always thought the mighty Peugeot had the edge. And so it proved as we blasted north along Italy’s version of SH1.
We were just south of Rome when the train was due to leave Naples which gave us a lead of 1 hour. An hour that would be quickly eroded as the train hit it’s maximum speed of 300km/h on the straights between Naples and Rome.
So we put the hammer down and and spent considerable time close to the 150km/h mark.
But no challenge is that simple. We got a text from the train travellers that they had run into problems – the train had stopped just 15 minutes out of Naples. We continued on, extending the gap as quickly as possible.
An update from the train said the delay would be lengthy so we revised our plans. Mike and Charmaine were picking up a rental car in Florence and were going to follow us south but the rental depot closed at 7pm and with the train delay we were not sure if they would arrive in Florence in time. We would go to Florence via our cottage in Tuscany, drop off bags and then proceed to Florence with enough room to carry them if required.
Update – the train was moving again and halfway to Rome. We were on our way to the cottage, it was going to be close.
Update – the train had arrived in Rome. We were still on our way to the cottage, it was going to be really close.
Update – the train is halfway to Florence. We had dropped our bags and were on the highway north, we were in trouble.
Update – the train has arrived in Florence. We were still 30kms short of Florence. Game over. I could almost hear Clarkson yelling “loser” with the dreaded right-handed “L” to the forehead.
Moral of the story – never race a high speed train. The trip from Rome to Florence should, according to the train timetable, have taken about 90 minutes. The train did it is less than 60 minutes – clealry they have a “little slack” in the timetable.
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- Last dinner at Eden Roc Hotel before the challenge
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- Mike and Charmaine on the last night at Positano
Visitors
Over the last week or so blog posts have been infrequent – so infrequent that there haven’t been any actually. The reason is simply because we’ve had visitors – from New Zealand and the UK. We have been busy – a complete novelty after 3 months of doing, well, nothing.
In addition to Charmaine, Mike and little James we’ve had Danny Malone a mate from KiwiRail arrive on his latest European trip and Gill, Andre and Josh and Jordan jet in from the UK.
In the last few days we’ve been sightseeing in Pisa, Florence, Siena, San Gimignano and Volterra. We’ve eaten out in cafe’s, our local pizza restaurant and a restaurant with a carpark that turns into seating at night. We’ve laid by the pool, we’ve made a dent in the national stock levels of Chianti and Birra and generally had a great time.
A mixed assortment of pictures follow.
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- That tower
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- Charmaine, Mike and James at that tower
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- The Duomo in Firenze
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- Firenze taxi
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- Jordan in front of Florentine tapestries
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- Souvenirs of Firenze
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- Artist at work in Firenze
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- Piazza delle Signoria in Firenze
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- Firenze carriage driver taking a break
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- Graeme and Daisy on church steps in Castellina in Chianti
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- Mike and Charmaine at Radda in Chianti
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- By the pool relaxing
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- Jean and the girls by the pool
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- It’s not always the Germans that hog the loungers
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- Wee James and Mike go swimming
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- More relaxing by the pool
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- Andre photographing the kids
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- Josh on the lilo
White Roads
This was a phrase we had not heard before we started motoring around Tuscany. While it sounds quite exotic, it is simply the local name for dirt roads.
In Tuscany there are quite a few.
On a map you will see many roads criss-crossing Tuscany and the distance between places seems small by New Zealand standards. It’s only when you drive that you realise what sort of road it is and the trip time changes accordingly.
Clean me - please.
The road to the cottage is a white road 3kms long. As you can see by the back of the mighty Peugeot (which is a black car, honestly) in summer the roads can get quite dusty. Today, in honour of it’s impending trip to Positano, the Pug is getting it’s first serious clean.
I’ve even bought a sponge and some carwash from the local supermercato.
I’ll just wait until the temperature outside drops below 30 degrees before I start. Ah, that gives me time for a beer.
The day we got thrown out of the Palio
Saturday 2 July is the day of the Palio in Siena. The day horses representing the various contrada or districts of Siena race around the Campo for glory. We are heading south to Positano that day but were in Siena on Thursday evening and got wrapped up in the rehearsal for the Palio where they test the race track (and presumably the other things that go with the race).
Because the track runs through the various bars and restaurants that ring the Campo (yes, actually through their outdoor seating areas) they were all shutting early so the track could be cleared. The stands for spectators are behind the bars/restaurants and temporary grandstands had been in place for a week.
We had taken the dogs in with us so they could have their summer hair cuts and we were sitting in our favourite Campo bar when things started happening around us. Tables and chairs were being put away and last orders called – all at 6:30pm.
We knew the rehearsal was due to start at 7pm so we moved into the stands directly behind the bar and made ourselves comfortable. By this time, there were quite large crowds in the Campo, with groups supporting their contrada with songs, chants and general noisiness. It soon became apparent that the stands were all reserved, in fact quite large sums of money are spent to ensure a good spot.
A nice man explained that we were in the seats they had reserved but that we could move to the centre of Campo where viewing was free. We took the hint and moved – us, the dogs and associated paraphernalia out of the stands, across the track and into the central area.
The view wasn’t quite as good but the crowd was friendly and the dogs were settling. Within minutes, two things happened. Firstly we felt the first few raindrops that can signal a Tuscan downpour and secondly some polite officials told us that dogs were not allowed at the Palio as they might scare the horses so we had to leave.
Clearly the god of the Palio wasn’t on our side.
We, once again, collected everything together and headed off. By this stage the crowd was huge and the exits were not easy to find. The track was close to being closed off and the rain had started to fall heavily. Also, did I mention the temperature was around 28 degrees and we were carrying the dogs so they didn’t get trampled underfoot?
We eventually found an exit and pushed, prodded, and poked our way through. We found a place to shelter from the rain but this was a token gesture as we were completely soaked – rain from outside and perspiration from within.
A soggy, hot walk to the car followed. It seemed we were the only people in Siena heading away from the Campo as we were passed by groups of laughing, happy and dry locals.
There is a second Palio in mid August and we are keen to attend – but we just need to get some tickets first. Sadly the girls get to stay home that day.
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- Our favourite bar on the track – Jean is the blonde.
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- The Palio track running around the Campo.
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- The view from the stands.
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- The other view from the stands.
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- Just before we were asked to leave.
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- A panorama of the view from the centre.
Visiting Buonconvento and other things
In the last few days summer has really arrived in Tuscany. Temperatures have been around 30 degrees and the pace of life has slowed accordingly. Today we spent the middle of the day beside the pool and only when the temperature had dropped in the early evening did we venture out.
Jean and the girls at a cafe in Buonconvento
About 15 minutes down the road is the town of Buonconvento, a delightful place with an old town centre that has been developed over the years. We stayed in a villa only a couple of minutes from the town in 2004 and remember the town as utilitarian at best. Now it is a thriving tourist and artistic centre and definitely worth visiting if you are in the area.
The trip there and back is through farmland much of which is now planted in Sunflowers which are starting to bloom. When our visitors arrive in mid July, they should be looking great.
The girls
When we arrived back at the cottage the daily display that is the sunset was well underway. Although a camera can never do justice to this spectacle, here’s my best attempt.
Sunset over Siena - June 28
Early morning in Tuscany
I would love to claim these early morning photographs of the area around our cottage as mine. But those of you who know me well know that “early mornings” and I don’t mix.
Jean took these shots. I think they are great.
A weekend with Gill
Our dear friend Gill popped in for the weekend. It’s easy to say, but “popping in” meant a ridiculously early flight for Gill from the UK on Friday morning to Pisa where the entire Mowday clan went to pick her up.
It was great to see her and the girls got straight down to business. Three bottles of Moet disappeared almost immediately followed by a couple of bottles of Chardonnay (one a kiwi chardonnay saved especially for the occasion) over a dinner of Jeans famous roast chicken and potatoes. Suffice it to say Saturday started slowly in the cottage.
There was a little “pool time” and then dinner in the Campo at Al Mangia. Because the Campo is being prepared for the Palio on Saturday 2 July, barriers and stands are in the process of being erected and we had dinner in what is soon to be the middle of the racecourse on 3 inches of hard packed clay with race barriers on each side. Imagine having dinner on the finish line at Trentham racecourse and you’ll get the idea.
Dinner at Al Mangia sitting in the middle of the Palio track
All around us Campo life continued as always with bars and restaurants doing their usual business – but all in slightly surreal surroundings. It wasn’t quite what we expected or had planned. Jean being the control freak she is spent the first 15 minutes saying “this isn’t right, no, this isn’t right” repeatedly and wanting them just to “put it back the way it was” but Gill pointed out it was a truly unique experience. A couple of bottles of wine and an excellent meal helped everyone mellow somewhat.
We will see Gill and family again in late July and can’t wait.
Catching up with Kate
Last night we caught up with Kate and her family who are spending 2 months travelling around Europe. Kate used to work with Jean at Clemenger but she is currently based in the UK with her partner.
Jean had put Kate in touch with our villa wizard friend Olga when their trip was being planned but made sure to recommended a villa we had stayed at previously. Villa Crognole is a beautiful villa tucked into the Chianti hills with a view down the valley towards Radda. 
We called into Crognole yesterday afternoon for a drink or two along with Olga and her husband which meant the afternoon was spent sitting in the sun discussing travel, news from home, and any other subject that wandered into people’s minds, all in a mix of english, italian and kiwi.
We went to dinner with Kate and her family at Le Vigne restaurant just outside Radda. It was dining al fresco with a view over the vineyards that produce some of the great Chianti Classico wines. 
Dinner was lovely and all done on Italian time. That simply means that the wine and various courses rolled out through the evening until we finally left the restaurant, just before midnight.
Good people, great company and truly la dolce vita.
Our photo album
Jean and I have taken hundreds of photographs over the last few months. We’ve put a selection of them into an album on our MobileMe site.
There are some shots we have used in the blog but a lot of new ones. Follow the link and have a look.
We’ve got mail
One thing we pondered when we arrived at Casavacanza Vesta was whether letters, packages or parcels from home could find us. While almost all of our correspondence is by email or text, we thought there may be the need for good old fashioned postage. You know, documents that need signing, letters that need reading and packages that need opening. Could the Italian postal system work it’s magic and deliver mail to our door?
We have mail.
Jean’s Mum helped us out by mailing a test letter a fortnight ago and the good news is it arrived yesterday – lovingly delivered by Mrs Patritzia. She seemed a little surprised to be the final link in the Poste Italian supply chain as I suspect we were the first guests in Casavacanza history to get mail.
So, gentle reader, let’s put Mrs Patrizia to work, feel free to write or, even better, send presents.
Monday night takeouts
Monday nights are rapidly becoming takeout pizza night.
Parked for pizza.
The little pizza shop in Monteroni D’Arbia now has two regular kiwi customers who are working through the menu with gusto.
One thing that we have to perfect is getting the pizzas the 5 km to home hot. The first step was streamlining the pickup – which Jean achieved in true Italian style.
How serious are we about learning Italian?
Pretty serious it seems. I wandered into the kitchen (dining room, lounge) the other day and saw the note below taped up above the kitchen sink. It’s the stuff we need to learn this week – the irregular verbs avere and essere and all their various permutations. Sigh.
The note on the wall.
La dolce far niente 