Tag Archives: Siena

A year ago today – triumph and tragedy
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A year ago today – triumph and tragedy

It began as a day like all others as the sun climbed over the Crete hills to the east – except that we were up early enough to enjoy the sunrise and completely confuse our girls when we gave them each a pat on the head and departed for Siena. We were cutting it fine and the mood in the car was sombre. There was none of the usual banter as we headed along the SR2 into Siena.

Thankfully we didn’t get stuck behind any of the local autobuses on the way and as we drove through the Porta Tufi and into the old city to park we had 10 minutes left for the walk to the Campo.

It was Rugby World Cup final day. Half a world away two teams were about to go head to head to determine who were world champions – our might All Blacks or the unpredictable and dynamic French.

We arrived at the bar in time to find a seat amongst the small but growing number of New Zealand fans and the far more numerous French fans. We ordered our usual RWC colazione (breakfast) – cappuccino and tea, followed by white wine and birra. The discipline required to start drinking at 8am was something we had mastered over the preceding 6 weeks as we had watched the pool games, the quarter finals and the semi finals. In fact we were well known in the bar and our order arrived at the table the same time we did.

The game was engrossing. What everyone expected to be an easy All Black victory became an arm wrestle with the French doing what they do best – being unpredictable and playing ten times better than they did in the early rounds of the tournament – and with 15 minutes to go the score was 8-7 to the All Blacks. The remained of the match was agonising with neither team able to get in the killing blow.

The tension in that little bar in Siena was palpable. The Kiwis had gone quiet while the French supporters were vocal as the underdogs refused to roll over.

Victory for the All Blacks, when it came, was more relief than triumph.

After congratulations all round we left the bar and stepped out into the sunlight of the Campo. We headed to our usual bar – Al Mangia – to celebrate with a glass or two of Prosecco.

At Al Mangia the talk was not of rugby but of motorcycling. Motorcycle ace and local hero Marco Simoncelli had died after falling off his bike in the Malaysian MotoGP earlier that morning and the bar patrons were noticeably affected. Simoncelli was just 24 years old.

It was, it turned out, a day of triumph overshadowed by tragedy.

Family advice

My nephew’s girlfriend and her sister are planning a trip to Tuscany in September. We have been asked for some advice on where to stay and what to do in and around Tuscany.

It sounds as if the girls are looking for an authentic experience so rather than staying in hotels they are keen to get closer to the locals and try a villa for a week. They also want to know what to do and see in Tuscany. Here goes…

Where to stay?

Tuscany isn’t huge but basing yourself in the right place makes seeing the sights much easier and cuts down on driving time. We have traditionally based ourselves around Siena or just north of Siena in the Chainti region. This means that Firenze (Florence) is only an hour away to the north, Cortona is a little more to the east and some of the finest Chianti vineyards are on your doorstep.

It’s also an easy drive to the popular villages of San Gimignano to the west and Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano in the south.

Pisa is about an hour on from Firenze if leaning towers are your thing. And the eternal city of Rome is only two and a half hours south on the A1.

The villa

Tuscany is full of villas for rent and companies who rent them out. There are big operators like “Tuscany Now” (tuscanynow.com) and “Cottages to Castles” (cottagestocastles.com) who have hundreds of properties on their books. We’ve used both of these and have not been disappointed but our first point of contact will always be “Chiantimania” (chiantimania.com) and the lovely Olga and Francesca who run the business.

They are a small company with a collection of exclusive villas largely located in the Chianti region between Siena and Firenze. The villas feel more like homes rather than rentals and they have villas that can cater for all size groups. Chiantimania can also organise vineyard tours, olive oil tastings and Tuscan cooking classes. Olga found us our cottage last year in the Crete Senesi region just south of Siena. Given our modest budget she really had to hunt to find it but did a superb job.

And when dealing with Olga and Francesca nothing is too much trouble.

Things to look for in a villa:

  • A swimming pool – September will be hot
  • Air conditioning or insect screens on the windows.

Top tip: villas are rented from Saturday to Saturday. Many shops are shut on Sunday so make sure you visit the local Supermercato on Saturday afternoon and stock up for the next few days at least.

Getting Around

Tuscany is a part of the world that can only really be seen by car, bus or Vespa. There are trains running between some towns but for a truly independent experience a car is the best option. One word of warning, the major motorway system in Italy is superb but beyond that, roads can be a mixed bag. In a number of ways:

1) The quickest way between two points is a straight line – this is not a philosophy used much in the Tuscany countryside. Quite often what may look like a short trip on a map is a winding, twisting road. Generally in the countryside averaging 40km/h is pretty good. Having said that, the locals seem to be able to average twice that on the same roads so maybe it’s just us.

2) A road on the map is not always what it seems – in fact many roads marked on maps are what are called “white roads”.In kiwi speak that would be a dirt road. It’s not unusual but you just have to be aware that sometimes the asphalt turns to gravel and 80% of the time that doesn’t mean you’re lost or about to drive up someone’s driveway.

Of course the other 20% of the time it does.

Places to see

Where do you start? Based on our own experience and comments made by our visitors last year, the places liked most were:

Siena

Take a full day to explore Siena. Places to see include the main piazza in the old part of the city called the Campo ringed by buildings and dominated by the Torre de Mangia (tower). A climb to the top of the torre is a great way to see Siena and the surrounding countryside – but with it being 400 steps, it’s something for the fit and healthy.

It’s only a short walk from the Campo to the Duomo (cathedral) and even the non-religious should take a tour. Siena is also great for shopping which can be followed by a drink a Al Mangia bar on the edge of the Campo. This is a prime spot for that most Italian pass time – people watching.

Dinner choices in Siena are multiple. Al Mangia in the Campo is the place to be seen. The food is good but expensive and the view across the Campo is superb. Our favourite place is Osteria di Bigelli also in the Campo around the northern side (see Siena map). The food is very authentic, beautifully cooked and always a pleasure to eat. The service is friendly and helpful and the staff speak excellent english.

Top tip: parking a car in Siena can be difficult, particularly on Wednesday as that is market day. We use “il Campo” underground carpark (see Siena map). It’s about a 5 minute walk to the centre of Siena through the university grounds – very pleasant.

Florence

Or Firenze as the locals say. Firenze is definitely a day trip, possibly two days if you really want to get the most out of it. Visit the Duomo, the real David in the Galleria Accademia, Piazza della Signora with the other David, the Ufizi gallery, the Ponte Vecchio or as much as you can fit in.

If seeing David is your thing then make sure you book a ticket on the internet in advance to avoid the queues. Standing in line in the hot sun for hours is a sure way to sour a visit to Florence.

Florence is also great for shopping – gold, leather and anything designer. The area between the Ponte Vecchio over the Arno River, and the Duomo is packed with stores. When it comes time to eat we suggest getting off the main streets as the quality of food increases noticeably and the cost reduces dramatically.

On the way into or out of Firenze visit Piazza Michelangelo on the hill overlooking the city for the perfect photo opportunity. It will be you and about 1,000 other visitors to Firenze but it’s worth it.

Top tip: if driving to Firenze parking can be tricky. We always use a garage called Garage Ponte Vecchio at 46 Via de’ Bardi (see Firenze map). It’s a stones throw from the Ponte Vecchio and is located on the left of the road just before the roads become closed to public cars. It is expensive (8 Euro an hour) but it is right in the middle of Florence so saves a huge amount of walking time. There are many other carparks in the city but they can be hard to find and can be a twenty minute or half hour walk to the Ponte Vecchio. That’s a long way on a hot summer day.

San Gimignano – see Tuscany map

The quintessential Italian hilltop village famous for its towers of which 7 of the original 40 remain. It’s about 30 minutes drive from Siena and has impressed everyone we’ve taken there. It’s full of shops, bars and restaurants and is a mecca for tourists. In September the tourist rush is abating so it’s even better.

Top tip: Try gelato from the shop in the main piazza. It has won many, many awards – all displayed around the shop entrance.

Castellina/Radda/Panzano/Greve – see Chianti map

A cluster of small villages in Chianti which are worth a day trip. Traditional Chianti hilltop villages with Greve, built along a river, being the exception. Greve has a large triangular piazza worth wandering around. A must see/smell/taste experience in Greve is Macelleria Falorni, the butcher and deli on the far side of the piazza – look for the pig shaped sign hanging outside.

Castellina and Radda in Chianti are what you have always imagined Tuscan villages to be. Narrow streets and open piazza’s with a mix of local merchants and tourist shops vying for your attention. Washing hangs from second story rails above your head and there is always the clatter of dishes, the smell of food and the sounds of families enjoying siesta.

Buonconvento/Montalcino/Pienza/ San Quirico d’Orcia/Montepulciano – see Tuscany map

South of Siena this was very much our “home turf” and a trip through these villages can be done in a long day. This is the typical rolling hills, sunflowers, cypress tree part of Tuscany so take a camera and don’t be afraid to stop on the side of the road for a shot. Pienza is stunning with views over the valley below and is also the home of pecorino cheese – you have to try some. Montalcino is famous for Brunello wine. Expensive but like velvet to drink.

Top tip: if you can be in Buonconvento for dinner then eat at Marios on the main street in the old part of the town. If it’s warm ask to eat in the courtyard out back. The food is simple authentic Tuscan and delicious. Be adventurous – pheasant, quail, duck or local boar are all great.

Cortona

We’ve been to Cortona twice and both times it has rained so we aren’t huge Cortona fans. It has caché from the book “Under a Tuscan Sun” so is worth a visit if you have time. The book also means it is a mecca for tourists – mainly American.

Frances Mayes villa Bramasole is behind the town. Apparently she has sold it because of all the tourists arriving to say hello to her.

Assisi and Lucca

Both these places have been recommended to us but we have not got there yet. Assisi is actually in Umbria but apparently is amazing. In a week these might be a drive to far.

Other stuff

1) Learn some Italian and don’t be afraid to use it, the locals will appreciate it. To arrange for lessons – or even a single lesson contact the delightful Mauro at Saena Aiulia, our language school in Siena.

2) What about visiting a hairdresser in Italy. We have tried a few and they are all artists, doing things with scissors that would baffle most kiwi hairdressers. Our favourite is Salvatore Sangiovanni who owns System Parrucchieri in Siena. He can perform wonders – everyone who walks out looks like a model. Jean swears by him and would fly back for her next cut and colour if she could.

System Parrucchieri is located on Via Giovanni Dupre, 28 – Siena, it’s marked on the Siena map.

3) Try buying meat from a local butcher or deli rather than the supermercato. The experience is fantastic and the meat they supply is a cut and a half above the supermercato.

4) GPS is a miracle. Accept that and use one to get where you want to go. But keep a good old fashioned map handy as they are great for context.

But the best part of Tuscany …

will be the part the girls discover for themselves, and that’s what it’s all about.

And now we turn 200
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And now we turn 200

This is our 200th toscanakiwi post. When we started the blog it was to keep friends and family informed about our little adventure in Italy. But reading back over some of the last 200 entries I now realise it is also a collection of memories for Jean and I. It might be old age or just the passing of time but little things get forgotten and one adventure gets confused with another in our minds – but the blog is always there with the real story.

In September 2011, post number 100 was sent from our cottage in Tuscany. At that stage around 4,800 visitors had read the blog since it’s launch. As of today that figure has increased to 11,541.

A huge thank you to all our lovely readers. Your feedback is always welcome and knowing that our adventures are providing a little interest and entertainment is all that we can ask for.

Ciao

Graeme and Jean

Looking back at 2011

Last year was quite a ride for Jean and I and the girls. We started it in our home in Wellington, New Zealand, doing what we have done for the last 20 years and ended it in a pub in the English countryside doing what we enjoy most – celebrating with friends.

In between we rented our house, quit our jobs and moved the family halfway around the world to spend 9 months in Italy. Going through some of the 3,915 photos I’ve taken since leaving New Zealand brings back memories. Here are a selection covering the full 9 months. Some we’ve used in previous blog posts but others are new. Enjoy.

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Keeping the girls warm this winter – warning cute alert!

Winter means warm clothes. That means both us and the girls. So when we made the last visit to our dog groomer in Siena we did some winter coat shopping for the girls. The buying criteria was two-fold. Firstly, warmth for the girls on cold winter days and secondly, out-right cuteness.

In Troyes it was cold enough for the girls’ coats to be used and after a walk in the brisk 4 degree temperature we all adjourned to the bar for drinks.

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Then and now

The changing landscape of Tuscany – from our arrival in May to our departure in October. The photos are taken from the terrace at our place, 6 months apart.

An autumn night in the Campo

Siena is full of restaurants and most of these are either fully or partially outdoor.  This is particularly true of those that ring the Campo. In summer outdoor dining makes perfect sense with umbrellas or awnings giving protection from the sun until the evening when they are removed and dining becomes truly al fresco.

We had often wondered how the same restaurants manage in winter.  Many have little or no inside seating.  Did they shut completely until the following summer?  What was the plan?

Over the last week or two we have discovered the answer.  Gradually glass partitions have appeared around outside eating areas.  Umbrellas and awnings have been made into canvas roofing and all manner of electric heaters have been attached to walls, under umbrellas and onto awning edges.  The heaters all seem to give off a warm red, inviting glow as well as considerable heat.

Does it work?

Last night we ventured into Siena for our last visit before heading south.  It was about 14 or 15 degrees by the time we arrived.  We had booked dinner at L’Osteria del Bigelli and had drinks prior to that at Al Mangia Bar.  At both places we were toasty warm and even had to remove layers as the temperature rose.  L’Osteria del Bigelli added one more nice touch with each seat having a throw rug over it for cold knees – if required.

Dinner was, as always, great.  As we both had lamb chops it is clear what we are missing most from home, once again washed down by their excellent house wine.

I guess it should come as no surprise that after many years the restauranteurs of Siena have worked out how to keep business rolling in, whatever the season.

It was late when we bid farewell to the Campo and wandered back to the carpark though the old streets which, even then, were full of locals going about their lives.

For us it was time to move on.  Ciao Siena – until next time.

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October rain

The weather forecast for today was a 70% chance of rain.  And for the first time since June the grey clouds gathered and the heavens opened.

In the distance Siena disappeared as the rain enveloped it, only to reappear a few minutes later.

Around us the rain fell straight to earth as there was no wind (a novelty for those from Wellington) and you could hear every drop strike the parched ground.

We have another keen movie maker in the family

I’ve shot a bit of video in Italy over the last few months but now have to relinquish the crown of family filmmaker to Jean. Prompted by our departure from Tuscany at the end of October she put together a movie about our cottage.

Jean shot it so we had something to remember the cottage by but I thought it was worth sharing.

In using a single handheld shot for the whole movie she follows in the footsteps of great directors such as Hitchcock, De Palma and Scorsese.

Enjoy.

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Tuscany in three and a half days – day one and a half

Charlie and Isabel arrived on Saturday afternoon having travelled from north of Florence.  I had suggested they text us when they got close to our place which, in this case, meant texting from the carpark “I think we are here”.  The 3kms of dirt road make you wonder where the hell you are the first time you arrive.

We ambled out with the dogs and found them looking around wondering if this was our place or the home of some local family.  Either way they would have been made to feel welcome.

Dinner that night was at our local Pizza restaurant Le Campannia (other summer visitors will know this restaurant) which does excellent pizzas and provides endless free entertainment watching the antics of the locals.

Next morning was the All Black quarter final game so the entire team headed to the Campo at 9am to watch the game.  Clearly word about our World Cup venue is getting out as there were already two holidaying kiwi couples waiting for the game – and with us that meant the crowd swelled to a record eight people.  Nine counting an elderly Italian gentleman who joined us to support the French. He was a day late but still enjoyed the game.

Ninety minutes later it was “job well done” by the lads.  Well sort of well done as there is still some work to do before meeting Australia – and a chance for a wander around Siena before lunch in the sun at Osteria del Bigelli which, once again, did not disappoint with the food.

Jean made her famous kiwi roast pork with gravy for dinner and we washed it down with a very nice Chianti courtesy of our guests.

Rugby, beer, wine, sightseeing and roast pork with gravy.  A top day and a half.

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Washday in Siena

Despite all the advances in the modern home, some things are still best done in the old way.

Clearly very few apartments in Siena have dryers so Saturday mornings the streets are lined with laundry.

Given this washing is hanging over a major road out of Siena I guess nothing says clean and fresh like the lingering odour of “Eau de Two Stroke”.

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The terror of a hairdresser who speaks no English

It’s one of those things that needs to be done – haircuts in foreign languages. It’s simple for a guy – you nip into Siena, find someone who cuts hair, gesture for a bit off the sides and a bit less off the top, “grazie mille” and you’re gone.

For girls it’s a bit different. Particularly if colour is involved and the way you’re going to look for the next month or two is at stake.

Jean faced this situation recently and with some trepidation entered the small salon we pass on the way to language school to make an appointment. The hairdresser, a young Italian guy, spoke no real english but was helpful and seemed to know what needed to be done. All good so far.

New hair and new sandals as well

As the appointment was made to follow one of the All Black RWC games, Jean left me sitting having a quiet, post game drink (not to be confused with the pre game drinks or the inter game drinks) and estimated, based on past experience, that the whole operation would take about 90 minutes. She would text me when things were getting close.

No problems, I’d just sit and watch the world go by. Maybe do a little window shopping. Maybe not. “Anchi birra per favoure”.

Ninety minutes later – no text. Two hours – no text. Two hours and 20 mins – no text. To put it another way – that’s about 8 beers and, needless to say, by this stage I was feeling pretty good about life. My main concern, in fact my only concern, was whether or not I would be able to stand up.

To test this, a walk to the salon was in order to check Jean hasn’t been abducted, murdered, or worse, things have gone horribly wrong and she’s sitting there with red or green hair or even worse, no hair.

As I stagger through the door Jean seems calm and relaxed and, more importantly still has hair. The process is progressing but progressing very slowly. The hairdresser is a perfectionist – no an artist and it seems I have another 40 minutes to fill. I wonder how I”ll do that?

Fourty minutes later all is well, Jean looks great, every single hair is in place and perfectly cut, dried and styled. Just the look to be dragging a drunk through the streets of Siena on the way home.

Lunch at L’Osteria del Bigelli
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Lunch at L’Osteria del Bigelli

The lovely people who own the property we are staying at have gone out of their way to make us welcome, everything from dropping off fresh fruit collected from some of the fruit trees around the grounds to clearing trees to improve our view of Siena when we were away in Positano.

Last week they recommened a restaurant in Siena that they said served very good, very authentic Tuscan food. The restaurant is called L’Osteria del Bigelli and is siutated in the Campo in Siena.

We were a little sceptical as the standard of food in the Campo, with a limited number of exceptions, is quite poor and aimed more at speedy delivery to tourists so the restaurants can turn tables quickly rather than any real culinery excellence for more discerning customers – or even for us.

Following the rugby on Saturday morning we decided to try it out. The fact that is located next to La Birreria where we watch the Rugby World Cup matches made the decision even easier.

The restaurant consists of about 12 outside tables squeezed under large umbrellas to protect from the sun and 4 tables inside which, given the weather currently, remained empty while we were there.

We were very pleasantly surprised from the start. Jean had ravioli with cherry tomatoes and I had herb encrusted lamb with spinach. The food looked great, smelt great and tasted great. The lamb was so good I was concerned a South Island farmer wearing stubbies and a floppy hat was going to appear beside the table at any moment and say “I’ll take that mate” and walk off into the distance with it.

Washed down with a glass or two of vino the meal was superb. All up lunch cost just over €50 or about $NZ85 which is quite reasonable.

The verdict – a great recommendation, we will visit L’Osteria del Bigelli again soon.

September must be wedding season in Siena
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September must be wedding season in Siena

Supporting the All Blacks has meant we have spent quite some time in Siena over the last few weeks.  Fridays and Saturdays specifically, and every time there has been a steady stream of weddings being held at the Siena town hall in the Campo.  Clearly September is when couples both local and from all over Europe get married and Siena seems to be a popular choice.

In fact it is a bit of a production line with one group of wedding goers literally going into the Palazzo Pubblica as the preceding one comes out to be covered in confetti and rice.  On Saturday we took the time (along with a number of other casual observers) to watch this matrimonial ballet and to take a few photos along the way.

One large party – an Italian wedding – seemed to be taking an inordinate amount of time over the ceremony (italian’s taking their time, that’s unusual) and the following group who were from elsewhere in Europe – I say Germany, Jean says the UK – had to wait and wait and wait.

All ended up well though, they finally got their turn, I got some photos and to see some nice old cars, and Jean got to comment on all the frocks, shoes, hats, handbags, hair and makeup.

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I Mondiali di Rugby – terza parte

Saturday morning we made our regular pilgrimage to the Siena to watch the All Blacks play.  As we approached La Birreria, Jean commented “here we go again” referring to the ritual process of getting the television tuned to the right channel.

The perfect RWC breakfast - cappuccino, wine, beer and chips

But clearly we are having an influence on the bar.  When we arrived the TV was tuned in and already playing the warm up.  Chairs and tables had been arranged ready for us which meant we got to see the warmup, anthems and haka.  All things we wanted to see but usually missed.

We also had some fellow spectators join us.  A young couple from Hamilton who are in Europe for 5 weeks holiday walked in as we were getting settled.  They said they had driven an hour and 20 minutes from just south of Florence to find this particular bar in Siena. A blog they had read, written by Kiwis living in Tuscany, had mentioned it had live television coverage of the Rugby World Cup.  It took a moment for us to realise they were talking about Toscanakiwi.  Clearly our little blog has a wider readership than we thought – by at least 2 people.

So dear readers for the next big game  – the quarter final -  the drinks at La Birreria are on me.  See you all there.