Monthly Archives: October 2011

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Leaving for Positano

Inside stuff to pack

It has been a fantastic 6 months reveling in the Tuscan way of life but all good things must end.  And our ending is just a new beginning as we swap Tuscany for Positano on the Amalfi Coast.

We were there in July when it was summer and it was almost tropically hot. In November it should be cooler but still as warm as a summer’s day back home.

Outside stuff to pack

We shall see, but first we have to get there and that means cramming everything we own into our Renault Megane Wagon and driving south for about 5 hours … 6 with stops for the girls.

Farewell Tuscany, hello Positano.

Note: For a larger version of the video click the “Share” button when the video is playing and select “Download Video”. A new window should open with a larger and better quality version of the movie.

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Then and now

The changing landscape of Tuscany – from our arrival in May to our departure in October. The photos are taken from the terrace at our place, 6 months apart.

An autumn night in the Campo

Siena is full of restaurants and most of these are either fully or partially outdoor.  This is particularly true of those that ring the Campo. In summer outdoor dining makes perfect sense with umbrellas or awnings giving protection from the sun until the evening when they are removed and dining becomes truly al fresco.

We had often wondered how the same restaurants manage in winter.  Many have little or no inside seating.  Did they shut completely until the following summer?  What was the plan?

Over the last week or two we have discovered the answer.  Gradually glass partitions have appeared around outside eating areas.  Umbrellas and awnings have been made into canvas roofing and all manner of electric heaters have been attached to walls, under umbrellas and onto awning edges.  The heaters all seem to give off a warm red, inviting glow as well as considerable heat.

Does it work?

Last night we ventured into Siena for our last visit before heading south.  It was about 14 or 15 degrees by the time we arrived.  We had booked dinner at L’Osteria del Bigelli and had drinks prior to that at Al Mangia Bar.  At both places we were toasty warm and even had to remove layers as the temperature rose.  L’Osteria del Bigelli added one more nice touch with each seat having a throw rug over it for cold knees – if required.

Dinner was, as always, great.  As we both had lamb chops it is clear what we are missing most from home, once again washed down by their excellent house wine.

I guess it should come as no surprise that after many years the restauranteurs of Siena have worked out how to keep business rolling in, whatever the season.

It was late when we bid farewell to the Campo and wandered back to the carpark though the old streets which, even then, were full of locals going about their lives.

For us it was time to move on.  Ciao Siena – until next time.

It’s a dog’s life
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It’s a dog’s life

Morning in the cottage means chores – dishes, bed making, vacuuming, all the usual stuff.  Recently the girls have started watching this happen from the safety of the couch.  Neither Jean nor I can make a move without two sets of eyes tracking us.

If we show any sign of deviating from the routine, all hell breaks loose.

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Let’s go shopping

When we headed to Europe in April, we didn’t really expect to be here when the weather started to cool down.  As a result, winter clothes weren’t something we brought with us.

But in the last week, althought the days are still sunny and warm, the temperatures at night have started dropping.  It was clearly time to go shopping for something warmer to wear than shorts and a t-shirt.

The good news is that Italy is a great place to shop for clothes.  So stocking up wasn’t difficult.

For those interested, our new winter wardrobe consists of:

His

1)   Geox winter jacket with fur lined hood

2)   Mid grey coat jacket from Sisley

3)   Wool scarf from Sisley

10) Cream V neck jumper

11) Grey and blue round neck jumpers

12) Hilfiger casual boots

Hers

4)   Knee length cream wool coat

5)   Geox winter jacket with removable fur hood

6)   Max & Co grey top with gold buttons

7)   A long woolen top

8)   Assorted pants including Calvin Klein jeans

9)   Classic cream roll neck jumper

13) Geox sports shoes

14) Black nero boots

15) Fur lined suede boots

Having looked at the photo of the clothes Jean’s comment was “where’s the colour”? So that’s something we still need to add as well as some gloves and hats.  After that, bring on winter.

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Heading south – again

Our stay in Tuscany is coming to an end.  We leave at the end of October but our original plans to head home have changed a bit.

We have decided to chase the warm(ish) weather south to Positano and have arranged to stay for 6 weeks at Villa Greta looking out over the ocean. After we spent two weeks there in July we always said it was somewhere we wanted to return.

So, at the end of the week, we pack up the Renault and head south until early December.

It sounds simple when you say it fast but after 6 months we are quite settled in our tiny cottage in Tuscany.  We have a lot to take with us.  Slightly more, we suspect, than our 3 suitcases can carry.

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October rain

The weather forecast for today was a 70% chance of rain.  And for the first time since June the grey clouds gathered and the heavens opened.

In the distance Siena disappeared as the rain enveloped it, only to reappear a few minutes later.

Around us the rain fell straight to earth as there was no wind (a novelty for those from Wellington) and you could hear every drop strike the parched ground.

We have another keen movie maker in the family

I’ve shot a bit of video in Italy over the last few months but now have to relinquish the crown of family filmmaker to Jean. Prompted by our departure from Tuscany at the end of October she put together a movie about our cottage.

Jean shot it so we had something to remember the cottage by but I thought it was worth sharing.

In using a single handheld shot for the whole movie she follows in the footsteps of great directors such as Hitchcock, De Palma and Scorsese.

Enjoy.

Tuscany in three and a half days – day three

No trip to Tuscany is complete without a visit to Chianti.  We took the back road from Siena through Castellina to Greve.  We couldn’t resist showing Charlie and Isabel the deli in Greve particularly as Isabel’s business is dairy.  Although we have been to this deli a number of times (here for example), as with most things tuscan, there is always a surprise.  This time it was finding their cheese cellar where rounds of various cheeses lie slowly maturing under the floor of the deli.

Another suprise Greve had in store for us was a visit from the local Fiat 500 car club who proceeded to line their cars up in the middle of the square.  I think I took more photos of the members and their cars for the members than I did for myself.

On the return journey we stopped at Castellina for lunch and then visited the walled town of Monteriggioni.

We last visited Monteriggioni about nine years ago.  At that time it was almost deserted.  One cafe and a Gelato shop was about it from memory.  We mentioned this to our visitors but the collective decision was to take a look.  From the moment we walked through the entrance we knew things had changed.  Inside the walls were a collection of bars and cafes, a hotel, a restored church and numerous small boutiques selling arts, crafts and souvenirs.

Monteriggioni was constructed between 1213 and 1219 and formed the frontline in the disputes between Florence and Siena.  It was situated on the Cassia Road and was a key defensive fortification.  In 1554 it fell to Florence’s Medici family when Monteriggioni’s leader – an exiled Florentine called Zeti – simply handed over the keys to the town.  This was considered a “great betrayal” by the townspeople.

Thanks to restoration work carried out in the last few years it is possible to walk around the parapets as those who defended this town hundreds of years ago would have done.

More recently the town featured in the video game Assassin’s Creed II and Assassin’s Creed: Brotherhood. How cool is that.

Given our last visit was in 2002, we were impressed by how much had been done to this town over the last few years.

After that it was home for Graeme’s famous (infamous) Chicken and Parmigiano Risotto, a vino or two and then a bit of a lie down as Charlie and Isabel were heading to Parma the next morning.

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I Mondiali di Rugby – what can I say?

I think the best way to sum up the game today is with a very literal translation of what the Italian newspaper La Repubblica had to say about it:

“The New Zealand beat Australia 20-6 dominating from start to finish. Next Sunday in Auckland, they challenge for the title with the young cockerels, as 24 years ago, but the result is obvious in appearance.

The game ends with Richard Kahui flying from another part of the field and diving, he grasps the poor Quade Cooper, flinging him off the field. It’s the latest and exemplary image of meeting that consecrates Richie McCaw’s New Zealand, a perfect war machine that blows away the young and confused Australia.

The All Blacks beat hollow (20-6) in a match which from the first second of the game, the monstrous aggression of the hosts and was never really in question, with the kangaroos subjugated on each meeting point. Sunday’s final is with France, but it is a meeting apparently from the result a foregone conclusion.”

Tuscany in three and a half days – day two

When thinking about where to take Isabel and Charlie, we decided to focus on the smaller places.  They had already spent some time in Florence before arriving at our place and we felt that most people equated Tuscany with rural scenes and small hilltop villages.  And we know hilltop villages.

Day two would include two of the best examples of Tuscan villages – San Gimignano and Volterra.  Situated northwest of Siena these two are an easy day drive through some lovely countryside.

As always San Gimignano impressed everyone.  Now that the tourist season is ending the numbers thronging the streets have reduced and you can wander through the town without tripping over our travelling friends from America or Germany.

The day was superb – warm in the sun and cool in the shade.  We didn’t have the heat of mid summer which saps both strength and patience.

A coffee in the piazza was just what everyone needed before heading to Volterra, just 30kms away.

We have had mixed luck at Volterra.  The first time we visited was in June and the day was cool.  Walking the narrow lanes that translated to cold.

The second time we went, in July, it rained and rained and rained.  With the full New Zealand visitor crew along it became an exercise in survival.  And the beautful views across the valleys to the sea were completely obscured by mist.

This time the weather was better but, being later in the season, the town was without the bustle of tourists and because we arrived during siesta the town felt empty and a little unwelcoming.  Having said that we had a fine lunch there and captured some great shots from the walls but I’m sure the lasting impression of our guests will be the time spent in San Gimignano.

Dinner was planned for Ristorante Mario in Buonconvento.  Our Italian language courses must be working as we booked the table over the phone – in Italian. “Riservato per cena e sette mezzo per favoure” seemed to do the trick.  Sadly the outdoor courtyard at Mario’s was closed but we got to savour the inside fun and games.  The food was, as always, delicious and authentic.  Between the four of us we managed to eat pheasant, pigeon, pork shank and chicken (with a 4 cheeses sauce).  For dessert it was Creme Brulee (flaming to the table) and Tiramasu.  All served by helpful staff – including Mario and his Mama.

Day two – hilltop villages and real Tuscan food.  Can it get any better?

I Mondiali di Rugby – Galles v Francia
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I Mondiali di Rugby – Galles v Francia

We spent ninety minutes this morning sitting behind some very nervous frenchmen. They had arrived at La Birerra in Siena to watch the first RWC semi-final and went from ecstacy when the Welsh captain was sent off to despair when Wales had a chance to win the game in the last few minutes.

Or, in their words – from “allez, allez, allez” to “sacrebleu” and back again.

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Tuscany in three and a half days – day one and a half

Charlie and Isabel arrived on Saturday afternoon having travelled from north of Florence.  I had suggested they text us when they got close to our place which, in this case, meant texting from the carpark “I think we are here”.  The 3kms of dirt road make you wonder where the hell you are the first time you arrive.

We ambled out with the dogs and found them looking around wondering if this was our place or the home of some local family.  Either way they would have been made to feel welcome.

Dinner that night was at our local Pizza restaurant Le Campannia (other summer visitors will know this restaurant) which does excellent pizzas and provides endless free entertainment watching the antics of the locals.

Next morning was the All Black quarter final game so the entire team headed to the Campo at 9am to watch the game.  Clearly word about our World Cup venue is getting out as there were already two holidaying kiwi couples waiting for the game – and with us that meant the crowd swelled to a record eight people.  Nine counting an elderly Italian gentleman who joined us to support the French. He was a day late but still enjoyed the game.

Ninety minutes later it was “job well done” by the lads.  Well sort of well done as there is still some work to do before meeting Australia – and a chance for a wander around Siena before lunch in the sun at Osteria del Bigelli which, once again, did not disappoint with the food.

Jean made her famous kiwi roast pork with gravy for dinner and we washed it down with a very nice Chianti courtesy of our guests.

Rugby, beer, wine, sightseeing and roast pork with gravy.  A top day and a half.